Auxiliary Switch Wiring

Polaris425

That’s exactly what my thought process was. So I’m going to err on the safe side and use relays, power from the battery, and the AUX to power the relay.

Fortunately everything I have installed came with complete wiring harnesses.

LEDs have reduced the problem a lot for lights since they typically draw a lot less power than, say, my old KC lights did back in the day. I had 6 KC Daylighters @ 150watts each for a nice grand total of 900 watts! Talk about heavy duty wiring, and heat output. If you turned them on and forgot to take off the patio covers they would start to melt the plastic in practically no time. Compare that to the new KC 50" 8-Light Gravity® LED Pro6 Light Bar where the TOTAL for the entire bar is 170 watts! So, is the preinstalled wire that Ford put in there enough to handle 170 watts worth of lights? I found it, but @Chief Ron could probably walk us through the math. Running a heavier wire and using a relay is probably your safest bet because my guy says that the wire from Ford is probably too small, or VERY close to being too small, and I personally prefer to over engineer everything.

The voltage is a given… 12vdc
If you install a light bar that is 240 watts, divide the 240 by 12 to get the amperage of the circuit needed for proper power. This example is 20 amp circuit. So, with that being said, rule of thumb is not to use the exact amperage needed so upgrade to 30 amp. That is just for one light. If you operate multiple lights, then voltage is constant but amperes are accumulative. Hope this helps.

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