4" to 6.5" rear speaker upgrade

Bradenmclaughlin18

Really bad ? Disconnect the amplifier to reset it. Drop the gains down. You’ll need to retune it. (Yes with the microphone too) You can not drop the switch with it plugged in and a previous tune saved to the kicker key. You will have to start from the beginning like it’s never been tuned before. If you have a sub. Place the hi pass to 60 and see how much volume you get. You might like that more.

Yeah all info not known or mentioned previously. I'll screw with it later, pretty happy with it now, I may attack this when I decide to install the powered sub, and after taking RKs advice to reprogram with Forsan. I have the cable and laptop just need to study up and do it right.

I FINALLY did the Forscan upgrade today. Not a lot of difference per se at first, but then I realized removing the hi pass filter to the rears via Forscan also reset the speaker all settings to stock. I found this and bumped up the bass setting to where it was before(at 3/4 full bass) and it did seem to help wake up the new 6.5 rear speakers. Also added some gain to the rear speakers via the 200.4 amp, and got even better. The stereo is at its best so far. Still contemplating how to add the Kicker 10" sub woofer I bought.
AND I got rid of the that DOUBLE HONK I hate so much when closing the doors with the key fob in my pocket.
Gonna add the extra GOAT modes tomorrow via Forscan but that's a different topic.

Ok after more fiddling and realizing that the gain I thought I made was actually from adding gain (not pun intended) on the amp, I found a you tube vid from RanKor on "the other forum" (from which I'm banned, LOL) and it REALLY made a difference to wake up the back speakers.
If you have and use Forscan here are the lines of code you need in the ACM:

I undid what i did yesterday in 727-01-01 back to 382B, and then changed code in 727-01-02 to wake up the left and right speakers to (tweeter AND speaker) since I added the 6.5" rears.
This time, by fading to the rear speakers only again there was DEFINITE improvement. The proof was that I had to turn down the gain quite (about 1/3) a bit to the rear speakers on the 200.4 amp to stop clipping and distortion when I went back to normal fade of front and rear. I can really hear bass now coming from the back and a much stronger signal.
Here is his video from you Tube:


I also got all 7 GOAT modes today, that was cool. I'm liking this Forscan tool a LOT!

1. Update

If you have the plug n play kit 11. (Kicker key 200.4)
*Run a separate power and ground.*
If you notice clipping and the volume dropping when bass hits this is why. The plug n play harness is pulling power from the radio which is not efficient for the amplifier.
I do have 6.5s in the rear, so I did flip the fader to utilize full range from the front. (If you have the FORScan disregard the fader). I prefer frequencies set to 80hz. I was fighting the dsp tune with the mic. The dsp mic tune sounds good at lower volumes. If you want to have your system loud or if you are adding a sub I recommend disabling the dsp tune and running the amp they way it is. (No DSP tune) Hold the mic for 10 seconds to disable the tune and unplug your mic. If anyone was running into a similar issue I hope this helps.

I may try thanks. Do you have any advice regarding using the Kicker 10" Powered low profile amp? Looking at the manual it shows inputs from both L/R +/-. Does a sub really need left and right inputs?
My existing speakers, (upgraded front dash 4" speakers with 300 ohm bass blockers, stock 6.5 kick panel speakers, and upgraded 6.5 rear speakers with the Forscan mod ) are getting modified signals from the 200.4 amp adjusted with gain inputs and DSP tuning, where/how is the best place to get 2 channel inputs for the sub? Detune the DSP and take the 2 channel from where? Back speakers? Flip the fader on the 200.4 amp before or after detuning? How do I set the frequency to 80 hertz? Thanks for your advice

Nminus1

I may try thanks. Do you have any advice regarding using the Kicker 10" Powered low profile amp? Looking at the manual it shows inputs from both L/R +/-. Does a sub really need left and right inputs?
My existing speakers, (upgraded front dash 4" speakers with 300 ohm bass blockers, stock 6.5 kick panel speakers, and upgraded 6.5 rear speakers with the Forscan mod ) are getting modified signals from the 200.4 amp adjusted with gain inputs and DSP tuning, where/how is the best place to get 2 channel inputs for the sub? Detune the DSP and take the 2 channel from where? Back speakers? Flip the fader on the 200.4 amp before or after detuning? How do I set the frequency to 80 hertz? Thanks for your advice

The best place to grab the signal would be before the amplifier. You definitely want to make sure it’s before the signals get amplified. Especially if you have you hi/pass set on the amp (the dip switches) I would recommend grabbing the front signal. (If you have FORScan it shouldn’t make a difference). I do recommend using a module or a LOC (line output converter). The new powered modules will clean up and even add bass to a poor signal from a factory source. To answer your question about grabbing both left and right. No you do not need both. Of course it is recommended but will you really see a difference, no. The only time you will see a problem is if you have the radio faded all the way to the left or right. If you have chose the left speaker and you fade you radio all the way to the right, you won’t have a sub. But who does that? As long as you don’t listen to your music only on the left or right, you won’t have an issue grabbing only one speaker. Just make sure you tie the left/right positive and left/right negative together on your inputs on the powered sub. (I’ll drop an example below)

You will not have to mess with the kicker key or your tunes as long as you grab the signal before the amp.

I will be doing a sub install in the factory location with aftermarket equipment. I will keep you updated through the process.

Sub install complete. If you have the factory sub equipment with dummy gear, this is the way to go. This keeps it looking stock. Just in case if you didn’t know about the Ford dummy equipment. Ford ran out of subs and amps, so they installed fake equipment to look the part. I didn’t know about this until I started doing some research.
Also if you are grabbing a signal for a sub use the WHITE(+) and PINK(-) input to the kicker key. Sounds great!

Did the Forscan mod to enable full signal to rears. Seemed to help.
Disabled the DSP tune that was done with upgraded rear 4" speakers, redid it now that 6.5 rears were installed. Seemed better.
Enabled fader on 200.4 amp. When I tried to use the stock stereo fade/balance settings to fade to rear, rears went totally quiet. Hit reset and they came back alive. Hmm. Left fader on for now.
Drove it this way a few days. Ugh. Ok but still "muddy-ish a bit
Speakers seemed "muddy" like the midrange was pumped up too much (although stereo was set to factory settings)
Undid Fader on 200.4. Seemed to help
Lowered 200.4 front channel (amp 1) gain to zero, from about 20%.
Lowered rear 200.4 (amp 2) from about 40% to 20% so rears seemed alive still.
Sounded good. The stock rear speakers were barely even discernably before, now I have real sound from the rear.
Undid fader setting on 200.4 amp to disabled. Seemed to help with the muddy part.
Left stock stereo fade to normal, and all 3 tone settings to factory.
Not sure if I heard a difference, maybe.
Set the 200.4 amp to 80Hz. It was previously not enabled. Not sure if I heard a difference, maybe.
As set now, any volume above 15 is not only loud, but on certain songs, (those with lots of bass), the amps starts to clip at 16-17, (which is very loud as I said). I listen at 8-12 volume now.
Stereo is MUCH better than when I started.
But still seems lacking somewhat.
Not sure how to proceed except to add my already purchased Kicker powered 10" sub, (fed from stereo inputs in front of 200.4 amp as mentioned, using pink and white wires as recommended here on this forum) somewhere in the back of the Bronco.
The journey continues .........
Any advice/comments are welcome.
As I said before, stereo sound is MUCH better, but not where I had hoped it could go. Yet.

Ok I did the change I suspected would change everything stereo wise. It did!
I added my previously purchased Kicker 150/300 watt 10" powered subwoofer.

Background info for those not following this thread or the others in which I detailed my stereo build:
2022 2 door Bronco. 95% of use is solo, I have 3 other 4 door trucks/SUVs, I bought this truck just for me, not to transport people, kids or passengers around.

I have previously replaced the garbage front dash speakers to 100 watt Infinity with bass blockers.
I have replaced the useless 4" stock rear speakers to Kicker 150w 6.5" speakers with a Mabett speaker box kit.
I have used a Plug N Play wiring kit to install a Kicker 200.4 amp. I put it directly under the steering wheel on the horizontal brace. Easier installation and easy to get to.
This made a big difference. But not enough there was never any bass or low end sound.
I have used Forscan to program full signal to the rear speakers.
The kick panel speakers are stock.

This week:

I tapped in the input from the ACM for a full strength left channel input just ahead of the 200.4 amp for a subwoofer feed (pink wire is negative, white is positive) on the plug and play kit wiring. Thanks to the forum member who pointed this out.
I ran that feed from under the dash, (with a trailer 2 wire plug for unplugging) under the kick panel housing then under door sill plastic carpet moldings to the driver rear floor space. Only 5 feet of wire was needed and it took 5 mins top. Use a nylon trim removal pry tool (Amazon like $10 for the entire kit)
I installed a cigarette plug 12 volt kit (bought on Amazon, cheap like $15) to the power plug inside the armrest.
It is fused for protection. Also heavy gauge wire. The arm rest has space to close without pinching the power wire.
I measured and cut the wires for the input and power and soldered them, sealed with shrink tubing and electrical tape here and there to keep tidy.
I set the sub directly on the floor behind the drivers seat. It fits perfectly.
Now I don't have to drill or figure out which inside body panel to alter/mess up to try and mount.
The sub has a plug in harness for remote power up, L/R and 12 volt power.
I cut the right feed and remote power feed wires off at 2" from the Kicker Sub plug (so I could still use them if I changed my mind or set up.
The 12 volt power feed on the Bronco, both in the armrest and back in the rear cargo bay turn on automatically when you start the truck and turn off automatically about 30 min after shutoff, so the sub gets turned on and off by the Bronco.
If I decide to have rear passengers (which is rare for me) I can tell them to not step on the sub or just unplug it and remove it which is a 15 second deal.
I decided to do this to avoid running power thru the fire wall or somewhere else with 10 or more of feet of wire to extend (AND HIDE) both for feed and power, not to mention where to connect etc which is way more work.

I can adjust both the volume and gain for the sub easily for stereo tuning. (See photo).
NOW the good part:

The stereo sounds AWESOME!!
Bass sound and feel are AMAZING throughout the truck but especially for the driver!
I FINALLY have the stereo I wanted. The sound is amazing.
All the work, tinkering, mods were totally worth it. The wiring is just barely noticeable.
This will likely not work for Bronco 4 door owners who have passengers in the back all the time.
Or owners who don't want to see even an inch or two of wiring
But for me its perfect.
After all the stereo mods I did this was the easiest and made the most difference hands down.
Feel free to PM for any questions or post here and I will do my best to answer/explain.
Thanks to everyone who previously helped me. I will find their names and post.