Upfitter/Aux switches load

I have a set of Harbor Freight Road Shock 3" floods I installed directly to Aux switch #6. Works like a charm. No relays.

tackettbrnco

Read several threads on here about this after finding out my lights won't work being wired directly into the Aux switches and must go to a relay etc... My question is can Low amp draw accessories remain on the aux switches? Example would be the amber Backlights on my Kc Flex 4 80w pods take 5 amps each to run so that would be 10 amps total. Would these also need to be wired through a relay or would switch 3 through 6 work as they are each 10 amp fuse rating. I don't care to run everything through relays the dealer hooked all my lights up through the Aux switches and once I blew a fuse I found out through here that was not the way it should have been wired. 2024 Badlands sas edition btw so we know what were talking about. Attached a picture so you can see the pods and the Sae fogs which are pretty much poser status at this point. I will say the fogs work because they are on Aux 1 which is 30a but from my research here the wiring for these switcher are best used to turn on and off relays.

I run flex 3s as ditchlights and plumbed the backlights off of the parking light circuit. I used the SPV harness and it taps that out of the headlight. I would double check the amp rating for the flex 4 rating for the back lights- I couldnt find the number on the KC website, but the backlight for the flex 3s less than a quarter amp. I cant imagine the Flex four being like 20 times that. This is the SPV harness I used to do the back lights-

https://www.specialtyperformancepar...MI2-vl5MfsjwMVtofuAR05qiQnEAQYASABEgKwZPD_BwE

If it was me, I would run the ditch lights of upfitter 2 (15 amp) and either keep the whole pocket lights on on upfitter 1 or (if you want to add something that will need that 30 amp switch later) think about splitting the harness and put the flex 3s on one switch and the flex singles on another. I would probably run all the back lights together and either tap them into the parking lights or put them on one switch together.

Typically you don’t want to load up a circuit with max amps, you want to go to about 80%. , so for a 10A circuit you want 8A. This way you don’t blow a 10A fuse when you run right up to that point. But for these you might be ok if you start blowing fuses than I would add a relay.
I am surprised the back lighting is a full 10 amps, seems high for LEDs. 10A at 12V is 120watts.
but most cars run at 13-ish volts so that would give you some wiggle room.
I am running a set of DD SS3 sport spots on my number 6 switch, a set of DD SSC2 sport clear fog on switch 5, a set of DD SSC2 sport amber fog on switch 4. Switch 3, I am running the back light for the two SSC2 (my SS3 doesn’t have back light). On switch 2, I am running a set of harbor freights like @ressig1 and switch one I am running my 25w BTech GMRS radio.
According to Diode dynamics website, the SS3 are 1.1A (@ 13.2V) each so 2.2A for switch 6,
SSC2 are 0.6A (@12.8V) so 1.2A for switch 4&5.
Can’t find the back light but it is less than the 0.6A
Even if I had the higher power versions ( Max) I would only be at 6A for the SS3 and 4A for the SSC2.
The HF 3” pod say they are 4 amps ( not sure if that is each) we will assume 8A on switch 2. So far no issues and no relays, nearly a year in.

Jakob1972

Typically you don’t want to load up a circuit with max amps, you want to go to about 80%. , so for a 10A circuit you want 8A. This way you don’t blow a 10A fuse when you run right up to that point. But for these you might be ok if you start blowing fuses than I would add a relay.
I am surprised the back lighting is a full 10 amps, seems high for LEDs. 10A at 12V is 120watts.
but most cars run at 13-ish volts so that would give you some wiggle room.
I am running a set of DD SS3 sport spots on my number 6 switch, a set of DD SSC2 sport clear fog on switch 5, a set of DD SSC2 sport amber fog on switch 4. Switch 3, I am running the back light for the two SSC2 (my SS3 doesn’t have back light). On switch 2, I am running a set of harbor freights like @ressig1 and switch one I am running my 25w BTech GMRS radio.
According to Diode dynamics website, the SS3 are 1.1A (@ 13.2V) each so 2.2A for switch 6,
SSC2 are 0.6A (@12.8V) so 1.2A for switch 4&5.
Can’t find the back light but it is less than the 0.6A
Even if I had the higher power versions ( Max) I would only be at 6A for the SS3 and 4A for the SSC2.
The HF 3” pod say they are 4 amps ( not sure if that is each) we will assume 8A on switch 2. So far no issues and no relays, nearly a year in.

I double checked with KC and the amber backlights require a 5 amp fuse per light. So they may not run a full 5a draw but that's the specs the manufacturer gave me. I have already blew one fuse for the pods which got me going down this path of wiring which i have no background. I try to leave that to the pros but here i am after doing that LMAO!!!

1. FLEX ERA® 4 Pod Lights (SKU #0289)

• White lights (full bright) → 20A fuse per pod light
• Amber backlights → 5A fuse per pod light
• Since the amber backlights draw low current, you can wire both ambers to one switch.

2. FLEX ERA® 3 SAE Fog Pocket Kit (SKU #97168)

• Amber + low-beam white → 15A fuse
• Full bright whites → 15A fuse

Additional Notes:

• Flex Era 1 lights (if used) require a 10A fuse for white light and a 5A fuse for amber backlight, and again, ambers can be combined on a single switch due to low draw.
• Each switch should only control lights within its amp rating:
  • AUX1 → 30A
  • AUX2 → 15A
  • AUX3–AUX6 → 10A

tackettbrnco

I double checked with KC and the amber backlights require a 5 amp fuse per light. So they may not run a full 5a draw but that's the specs the manufacturer gave me. I have already blew one fuse for the pods which got me going down this path of wiring which i have no background. I try to leave that to the pros but here i am after doing that LMAO!!!

1. FLEX ERA® 4 Pod Lights (SKU #0289)

• White lights (full bright) → 20A fuse per pod light
• Amber backlights → 5A fuse per pod light
• Since the amber backlights draw low current, you can wire both ambers to one switch.

2. FLEX ERA® 3 SAE Fog Pocket Kit (SKU #97168)

• Amber + low-beam white → 15A fuse
• Full bright whites → 15A fuse

Additional Notes:

• Flex Era 1 lights (if used) require a 10A fuse for white light and a 5A fuse for amber backlight, and again, ambers can be combined on a single switch due to low draw.
• Each switch should only control lights within its amp rating:
  • AUX1 → 30A
  • AUX2 → 15A
  • AUX3–AUX6 → 10A

Wow those are some power hungry lights. Would be nice if that gave you actual amp draw or wattage. But it seems these lights would be better set up through a set of relays. Somewhere I saw someone that has a nice set of relays lined up on the fire wall driver side. Might have been @Unicorn but can’t remember. It should be a fairy easy install, but if you are not comfortable with wiring you might have to find a good off road shop that can install the relays and wiring.

Jakob1972

Wow those are some power hungry lights. Would be nice if that gave you actual amp draw or wattage. But it seems these lights would be better set up through a set of relays. Somewhere I saw someone that has a nice set of relays lined up on the fire wall driver side. Might have been @Unicorn but can’t remember. It should be a fairy easy install, but if you are not comfortable with wiring you might have to find a good off road shop that can install the relays and wiring.

I did mount a 6 relay box (6ea 40 amp relays) that includes fuses for each relay (so I can fuse them individually per run length and wire size and draw) I mounted the box on the fender just to the side of the Ford Fuse box. ALL of my aux switches are wired to this relay box... So yes they are all going through two separate relays... The Ford relays only open and close the heavier relays I added. This way I could run any size line I wanted to any accessory and feel comfortable. I hate electrical fires.

Unicorn

I did mount a 6 relay box (6ea 40 amp relays) that includes fuses for each relay (so I can fuse them individually per run length and wire size and draw) I mounted the box on the fender just to the side of the Ford Fuse box. ALL of my aux switches are wired to this relay box... So yes they are all going through two separate relays... The Ford relays only open and close the heavier relays I added. This way I could run any size line I wanted to any accessory and feel comfortable. I hate electrical fires.

I am glad I got that right. but I remember it looking really good and all of your stuff is on point, that it must have been you. lol.

I installed a Circuit Breaker that is attached to an Anderson connector (behind my bumper) I use it for my air compressor and one end of a set of jumper cables. for the Bracket I cut a section of cutting board and painted it black, this way it is non conductive. but the wife was pissed when 1/3 of her cutting board was missing. you can see it behind the fuse box. just used some existing holes and stainless hardware to mount it. you could do something like this to mount relays to.

Unicorn

I did mount a 6 relay box (6ea 40 amp relays) that includes fuses for each relay (so I can fuse them individually per run length and wire size and draw) I mounted the box on the fender just to the side of the Ford Fuse box. ALL of my aux switches are wired to this relay box... So yes they are all going through two separate relays... The Ford relays only open and close the heavier relays I added. This way I could run any size line I wanted to any accessory and feel comfortable. I hate electrical fires.

Could you post a picture of how you mounted your relays? What gauge wire would you suggest to use. Here's updated info from KC on amp draw. Seems the 40 amp fuse is there to cover all bases and to not run the fuse too 100% im guessing.

This is Aaron from KC HiLiTES, thank you for reaching out!
We use a 40 amp fuse on the harnesses we provide with our Flex Era 4 lights.
If you were to wire in relays, a 40 amp relay would be safe. 2 Flex Era 4 lights use about 27 amps.
The fog pocket kit wouls also be able to use the full power on this same relay.

Jakob1972

Wow those are some power hungry lights. Would be nice if that gave you actual amp draw or wattage. But it seems these lights would be better set up through a set of relays. Somewhere I saw someone that has a nice set of relays lined up on the fire wall driver side. Might have been @Unicorn but can’t remember. It should be a fairy easy install, but if you are not comfortable with wiring you might have to find a good off road shop that can install the relays and wiring.

Yeah I think the 40 amp fuse is to cover the light since they draw 27 amps and 30 amp relay is so close to full relay power. I have no idea truly.

Plan is to do 2 40a relays 1 for pods for full power, the other for the pocket fogs for full power, 30a for Amber's. 30 amps may be overkill but it i can find a 20 amp ill go with it. Any suggestions on this? Dealer install was definitely sub par on wiring but oh well they said they would make it right so that is a huge plus!!

tackettbrnco

Could you post a picture of how you mounted your relays? What gauge wire would you suggest to use. Here's updated info from KC on amp draw. Seems the 40 amp fuse is there to cover all bases and to not run the fuse too 100% im guessing.

This is Aaron from KC HiLiTES, thank you for reaching out!
We use a 40 amp fuse on the harnesses we provide with our Flex Era 4 lights.
If you were to wire in relays, a 40 amp relay would be safe. 2 Flex Era 4 lights use about 27 amps.
The fog pocket kit wouls also be able to use the full power on this same relay.

Relay box is on the right side. The switched solenoid on the Ford box is for my winch.

There is a 1 gage feed to the relay box and I ran either 12 gage or 10 gage to each of my accessories. All of the relays are fused and the box has an additional 6 fused wires with only one currently utilized running to my rock lights that are separately switched.

Oh and there is a separate fuse up on the fire wall (back left side of pic) for my audio amp.

Unicorn

Relay box is on the right side. The switched solenoid on the Ford box is for my winch.

There is a 1 gage feed to the relay box and I ran either 12 gage or 10 gage to each of my accessories. All of the relays are fused and the box has an additional 6 fused wires with only one currently utilized running to my rock lights that are separately switched.

Oh and there is a separate fuse up on the fire wall (back left side of pic) for my audio amp.

Nice work!!! Looks neat and very well done!!

tackettbrnco

Nice work!!! Looks neat and very well done!!

Appreciate that.. but I have seen better. Ford does not give us a lot of space and it is difficult to locate stuff after the vehicle is built without tearing it completely apart and starting over with the motor out of it.... AND then piece mealing it together, part by part. But at least I can open each box up without having to tear out the other boxes just to change a fuse or to test a line. It does at least keep everything up out of water and mud.

Unicorn

Appreciate that.. but I have seen better. Ford does not give us a lot of space and it is difficult to locate stuff after the vehicle is built without tearing it completely apart and starting over with the motor out of it.... AND then piece mealing it together, part by part. But at least I can open each box up without having to tear out the other boxes just to change a fuse or to test a line. It does at least keep everything up out of water and mud.

So as I have thought about the wiring way to much at this point I have a question for you and anyone else who sees this. My lights all came with wiring harnesses that the tech shortened and used to install the lights. The Kc fog pockets in particular are made to wire into the upfitter/aux switches. On road 7.6amp Off road 16.2 amp. Meant to go on switch 1 and 2 respectively (same wire gauge for both just different fuses 1 is 30a 2 is 15a). So my question is if im only using the upfitter switches to tie into a pre existing appropriate harness that falls under the fuse rating in that switch would I need to use a Relay? 1 and 2 same gauge wire i could put a 20 fuse in switch 1 to be safe (30 seems high). Would that work and theoretically be safe? I however for the pod lights will still have to use a relay since amp draw is to large for the fuse but there again they are ran off of the KC factory wiring harness that is appropriate sized wire for the application. Idk if this makes any sense lol I've been looking at wire gauge and amps and current for a damn week!!!!! 😅

tackettbrnco

So as I have thought about the wiring way to much at this point I have a question for you and anyone else who sees this. My lights all came with wiring harnesses that the tech shortened and used to install the lights. The Kc fog pockets in particular are made to wire into the upfitter/aux switches. On road 7.6amp Off road 16.2 amp. Meant to go on switch 1 and 2 respectively (same wire gauge for both just different fuses 1 is 30a 2 is 15a). So my question is if im only using the upfitter switches to tie into a pre existing appropriate harness that falls under the fuse rating in that switch would I need to use a Relay? 1 and 2 same gauge wire i could put a 20 fuse in switch 1 to be safe (30 seems high). Would that work and theoretically be safe? I however for the pod lights will still have to use a relay since amp draw is to large for the fuse but there again they are ran off of the KC factory wiring harness that is appropriate sized wire for the application. Idk if this makes any sense lol I've been looking at wire gauge and amps and current for a damn week!!!!! 😅

Aux switches are already using a relay... The relays are in the bottom of the Ford fuse box. They are not very accessible but they are there. The only concern with a relay is that it is large enough to handle the amount of amperage you are putting through it. oversized is not an issue (to a point). A lighter fuse is not a problem... in fact I would consider it safer. It becomes a problem when you start blowing fuses because the draw is slightly over design. The fact that they shortened the lines helps. The length of the wire run has draw. The longer it is the more resistance it has and that is on top of the draw from the light. The fuse is to protect the line from becoming too hot, melting the insulation and arcing. I think you should be fine. If you use a 20 and fuse and start blowing it then go to a 25.... You just do not want to go above a 30 since they designed (sized) the wire for a 30 amp load at max.

In a nut shell.... I like bigger relay, larger wire diameter, and smaller fuse...

Jakob1972

Wow those are some power hungry lights. Would be nice if that gave you actual amp draw or wattage. But it seems these lights would be better set up through a set of relays. Somewhere I saw someone that has a nice set of relays lined up on the fire wall driver side. Might have been @Unicorn but can’t remember. It should be a fairy easy install, but if you are not comfortable with wiring you might have to find a good off road shop that can install the relays and wiring.

After going back and forth with KC they told me each Flex 4 pod draws 6.7 amps. They told me today they would email me the amp draw on backlights for the pods. They also stated the amp draw on the Sae fog pocket lights specifically made to go on to the Bronco upfitter switches were well over the max 30a fuse. After calling and raising my questions to a person (i think) they clarified the amp draw on the pods (mis stated on the website for the master kit with the wiring but correct on the single light without wiring) and they would have to reach back out to me concerning the over stated amp draw for the lights designed to be a plug and play with the bronco upfitter switches. Wow what a journey LMAO!!!! I dont fault customer service they are just pulling info straight off the website specs, i get it. Man it would be nice to gwt a real answer however. So for now ill wait to see if i use relays or if i can wire direct via the light manufacturers wiring harness. If anyone knows anybody at KC even the janitor let me know ill talk to anybody who may know if the website is even right. Thanks BTW to all the great info everyone shared!!!! I have learned a ton.