Upfitter Switches

Afoxy21

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So I’m not sure if I posted this to the right thread. If anyone has installed anything to the upfitter switches, I have a few questions. Are you able to move the fuse sizes around? I’m kinda OCD about things and I’d like to add lights. The lights I wanna add range in amp draw from 5 to 15 amps. I know switches 4-6 are 5A fused and 1 is 25A, 2 is 15A and 3 is 10A. Long question short, can I move the fuses around so I can wire want I want to switches 1, 2, and 3 simply by moving fuses around?
 

Cornwelltoolman

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So I’m not sure if I posted this to the right thread. If anyone has installed anything to the upfitter switches, I have a few questions. Are you able to move the fuse sizes around? I’m kinda OCD about things and I’d like to add lights. The lights I wanna add range in amp draw from 5 to 15 amps. I know switches 4-6 are 5A fused and 1 is 25A, 2 is 15A and 3 is 10A. Long question short, can I move the fuses around so I can wire want I want to switches 1, 2, and 3 simply by moving fuses around?
No they are fused to protect the wire more amps needs heavier gauge wire
 

RagnarKon

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@Cornwelltoolman is correct... the wire gauges are different, so you have to be aware of that.

I'm also not sure where you are getting your circuit ratings from. The wiring for both Aux 1 and Aux 2 are rated for 30 amps. Aux 1 is indeed fused for 30 amps, however, Aux 2 is only fused for 15 amps from the factory. Aux 3/4/5/6 are rated for and fused for 10 amps.
 

ResidualGenius

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So I’m not sure if I posted this to the right thread. If anyone has installed anything to the upfitter switches, I have a few questions. Are you able to move the fuse sizes around? I’m kinda OCD about things and I’d like to add lights. The lights I wanna add range in amp draw from 5 to 15 amps. I know switches 4-6 are 5A fused and 1 is 25A, 2 is 15A and 3 is 10A. Long question short, can I move the fuses around so I can wire want I want to switches 1, 2, and 3 simply by moving fuses around?
3-6 are all 10 amps but I guess if you got in there and switched up all the wiring you cuold. Just simply a little money for someone to do it
 
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Rgwinn

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This is what was originally shared, guess a quick visual check to the distribution box would help. And, now I’m curious if the wire is all the same gauge.
268A9681-978E-42C6-87D5-80E5217A3FA8.jpeg
 
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RagnarKon

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This is what was originally shared, guess a quick visual check to the distribution box would help. And, now I’m curious if the wire is all the same gauge.
View attachment 22619
Ahhhhhhhh.... that explains why @Afoxy21 had different ratings. Okay it all makes sense now.

It seems like the production version is different. From the user manual and the installation guide. Also... the wire gauges are listed in the chart.
  • 1.5 mm^2 = 16 AWG
  • 0.75 mm^2 = 18 AWG

Screen Shot 2021-11-27 at 20.44.10.png
 

Rgwinn

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Ok, I went out and snapped a photo of my fuse box, and the manual, this is what it looks like ;
1832464C-24A9-4C6F-ABDF-3BD40552E409.jpeg
 

Afoxy21

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This is what was originally shared, guess a quick visual check to the distribution box would help. And, now I’m curious if the wire is all the same gauge.
View attachment 22619
This is the sheet I was basing fuse size off of. I was curious of the same thing if the circuit wire is all the same size, is the wire that comes from the switches?
 
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RagnarKon

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This is the sheet I was basing fuse size off of. I was curious of the same thing if the circuit wire is all the same size, is the wire that comes from the switches?
So the live circuits to the Aux switches all have cabling that is appropriate for the fuses they are wired to. Each of those circuits terminate in the engine bay on the driver side. It'll be either 16 gauge for Aux 1/2, or 18 gauge for Aux 3/4/5/6.

Then there are a bunch of unconnected cables run to various parts of the vehicle:
  • Engine bay to the front bumper (obviously intended for bumper pod lights)
  • 2x Engine bay to the glove box
  • Glove box to the cargo area of the vehicle (probably intended powering something like a portal electric cooler/freezer)
  • Glove box to the top of the wind shield (obviously intended for a light bar)
All of those cables are 16 gauge wire, which effectively means any one of those cable runs is appropriate for the Aux 1 switch (which is a 30 amp circuit). To connect it, you'd take one of the Aux switches and connect it to one of the unconnected cables in the engine bay. Obviously there is only three unconnected cables in the engine bay, so with the wiring Ford gives you, you only have enough cabling to connect three of the Aux switches. The rest you'll have to run your own cabling for unless the remaining three circuits will all be used within/around the engine bay.
 
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Cornwelltoolman

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So the live circuits to the Aux switches all have cabling that is appropriate for the fuses they are wired to. Each of those circuits terminate in the engine bay on the driver side. It'll be either 16 gauge for Aux 1/2, or 18 gauge for Aux 3/4/5/6.

Then there are a bunch of unconnected cables run to various parts of the vehicle:
  • Engine bay to the front bumper (obviously intended for bumper pod lights)
  • 2x Engine bay to the glove box
  • Glove box to the cargo area of the vehicle (probably intended powering something like a portal electric cooler/freezer)
  • Glove box to the top of the wind shield (obviously intended for a light bar)
All of those cables are 16 gauge wire, which effectively means any one of those cable runs is appropriate for the Aux 1 switch (which is a 30 amp circuit). To connect it, you'd take one of the Aux switches and connect it to one of the unconnected cables in the engine bay. Obviously there is only three unconnected cables in the engine bay, so with the wiring Ford gives you, you only have enough cabling to connect three of the Aux switches. The rest you'll have to run your own cabling for unless the remaining three circuits will all be used within/around the engine bay.
great explanation
 

Speed Devil

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Depends. You want them on three independent switches or all on the same switch? Or do you want the fogs on one switch and the pod on another?
Really be nice to put the whole set on one and then the pods on another (and my cat loves his new perch apparently)

how blinding would it be? Max/Max/Pro
7190D1D1-97AB-41FC-BF8B-62108C23F766.jpeg
86AC0326-C7B9-43C2-BA0D-E49FEAD716A9.jpeg
BA765DCB-EA88-4293-B11E-1ED3F7FCE6BB.jpeg
 

RagnarKon

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Really be nice to put the whole set on one and then the pods on another (and my cat loves his new perch apparently)

how blinding would it be? Max/Max/Pro
View attachment 23746View attachment 23747View attachment 23748
Without knowing your familiarity with electrical circuits it’s kind of hard to know how much detail you need. So if I say too little or maybe too much feel free to yell at me or ask follow-up questions.

So you’ll need to figure out the power draw of the lights first. There should be a spec sheet that lists the power draw in watts, or current draw in amps.

More likely than not, the lights will consume well under 10 amps (can’t see what the model numbers are from the pictures, so unable to look it up myself). If that’s true, it makes sense to hook it up to 3/4/5/6 and save 1 and 2 for something that uses more power.

There are a few different ways to do it, but here is an option.
  • Hook the Switch 3 wire in the engine bay (drivers side near the windshield by the fuse box), to the unconnected wire that runs between the fuse box area and the front grille. The hook the two fog lights in series to that (now connected) unconnected wire.
  • Run a new set of 18 AWG wires to wherever the pod lights will be installed. Connect those in series to the Switch 4 wire in the engine bay.
 

Speed Devil

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Without knowing your familiarity with electrical circuits it’s kind of hard to know how much detail you need. So if I say too little or maybe too much feel free to yell at me or ask follow-up questions.

So you’ll need to figure out the power draw of the lights first. There should be a spec sheet that lists the power draw in watts, or current draw in amps.

More likely than not, the lights will consume well under 10 amps (can’t see what the model numbers are from the pictures, so unable to look it up myself). If that’s true, it makes sense to hook it up to 3/4/5/6 and save 1 and 2 for something that uses more power.

There are a few different ways to do it, but here is an option.
  • Hook the Switch 3 wire in the engine bay (drivers side near the windshield by the fuse box), to the unconnected wire that runs between the fuse box area and the front grille. The hook the two fog lights in series to that (now connected) unconnected wire.
  • Run a new set of 18 AWG wires to wherever the pod lights will be installed. Connect those in series to the Switch 4 wire in the engine bay.
Leaving it to my Brother In Law's brother, he does lighting for Cop Cars
 

Bschurr

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Without knowing your familiarity with electrical circuits it’s kind of hard to know how much detail you need. So if I say too little or maybe too much feel free to yell at me or ask follow-up questions.

So you’ll need to figure out the power draw of the lights first. There should be a spec sheet that lists the power draw in watts, or current draw in amps.

More likely than not, the lights will consume well under 10 amps (can’t see what the model numbers are from the pictures, so unable to look it up myself). If that’s true, it makes sense to hook it up to 3/4/5/6 and save 1 and 2 for something that uses more power.

There are a few different ways to do it, but here is an option.
  • Hook the Switch 3 wire in the engine bay (drivers side near the windshield by the fuse box), to the unconnected wire that runs between the fuse box area and the front grille. The hook the two fog lights in series to that (now connected) unconnected wire.
  • Run a new set of 18 AWG wires to wherever the pod lights will be installed. Connect those in series to the Switch 4 wire in the engine bay.
Excellent plan and although @Speed Devil requested a single circuit for all 3 pair of lights, personally, I would install them on 3 separate aux switches since they can easily be combined later if additional switches are needed. I think it would be nice to have individual control of each pair - but, that’s just me.
 
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Speed Devil

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Excellent plan and although @Speed Devil requested a single circuit for all 3 pair of lights, personally, I would install them on 3 separate aux switches since they can easily be combined later if additional switches are needed. I think it would be nice to have individual control of each pair - but, that’s just me.
If anything, do the Fogs on one and the other 2 on 2, then the pods on 3
 
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