Want to do oil changes on your Bronco? Here's the info you need.

THANK YOU !!
Great write-up !!

I've only changed my oil once so I've used the stock plastic yellow drain plug. I've got a permanent one ready to put on for the next oil change.
The only tip I can provide is that when you take out that yellow drain plug, the oil comes out in a hurry. Guaranteed not to hit your drain pan. So I crudely bent up some cardboard to divert the oil down towards the oil catch pan instead shooting straight out all over the garage floor.

Deano Bronc

I've only changed my oil once so I've used the stock plastic yellow drain plug. I've got a permanent one ready to put on for the next oil change.

Is that permanent plug a drain valve or something like that?? That's awesome if they make those for the plastic oil pans/plugs.

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Which reminds me... the Fumoto F107SX drain valve works great on the 2.3L engine, no adapter needed.



Also, you can ignore the aluminum foil I added. There was a wiring harness attached to the cross-member (I assume it's for the sway-bar disconnect). I was worried about getting oil all over that wiring harness since it was wrapped in cloth tape, but it ended up not being an issue.

RagnarKon

Is that permanent plug a drain valve or something like that?? That's awesome if they make those for the plastic oil pans/plugs.

----

Which reminds me... the Fumoto F107SX drain valve works great on the 2.3L engine, no adapter needed.



Also, you can ignore the aluminum foil I added. There was a wiring harness attached to the cross-member (I assume it's for the sway-bar disconnect). I was worried about getting oil all over that wiring harness since it was wrapped in cloth tape, but it ended up not being an issue.

Here is what I purchased. I will attach a clear hose to it so it will drain straight down into the oil catch container.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07H56TP4F?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

On the 2.7l, if the bronco is parked where the front is a little lower than the rear, it makes a world of difference. Three oil changes so far, no spills or messes yet.

Thanks great info

RagnarKon

This is not intended to be a full how-to guide... there is plenty of those on the internet. More just a quick reference for those who already know how to do oil changes and just want the information without having to watch a full 10+ minute YouTube video on the subject.

If you have a favorite video (perhaps one you created yourself), or have some helpful tips, post it!!

Appreciate ya!

What is the torque spec for the oil pan drain bolt, 2.7?

Deano Bronc

Here is what I purchased. I will attach a clear hose to it so it will drain straight down into the oil catch container.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07H56TP4F?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

Deano, is that Ronin plug good for both engines? I have a 2.3L. It just says Ford Bronco, I believe and not the engine sizes. Thanks.

I just added the torque specs for the oil filter, drain plugs, oil filter housings, bash plates, etc. for those who like to do things by the book rather than the typical "this bolt looks like it'll take 1.25 uggah-duggahs".

The Bronc

What is the torque spec for the oil pan drain bolt, 2.7?

No torque spec for the 2.7L... it's a plastic plug. 120 degree turn to loosen it, 120 degree turn the other way to install it back into the oil pan.

Hobgoblin

Deano, is that Ronin plug good for both engines? I have a 2.3L. It just says Ford Bronco, I believe and not the engine sizes. Thanks.

You're right, it just says Bronco. I doubt Ford has different replaceable plugs but I'm not positive if it fits or not.

After changing the filter, replacing the drain plug, and filling the engine with fresh oil, you can prime the engine WITHOUT starting it - do the "Flat Foot Crank":

Press and hold both the brake and gas pedal all the way to the floor.

Press start button - engine will crank as long as you hold it down, but will NOT start. 5-10 seconds should be plenty to prime the engine.

Release start button, release both pedals. Press Start button again to start engine normally.

Check for leaks.

EBG

After changing the filter, replacing the drain plug, and filling the engine with fresh oil, you can prime the engine WITHOUT starting it - do the "Flat Foot Crank":

Press and hold both the brake and gas pedal all the way to the floor.

Press start button - engine will crank as long as you hold it down, but will NOT start. 5-10 seconds should be plenty to prime the engine.

Release start button, release both pedals. Press Start button again to start engine normally.

Ohhhh this is a good one. Especially for the 2.3L engine that has a sideways mounted oil filter—you can't pre-fill the oil filter like you normally can.

One extra note: for manual transmission, it is the clutch and gas pedal, rather than the brake and gas pedal.

RagnarKon

This is not intended to be a full how-to guide... there is plenty of those on the internet. More just a quick reference for those who already know how to do oil changes and just want the information without having to watch a full 10+ minute YouTube video on the subject.

If you have a favorite video (perhaps one you created yourself), or have some helpful tips, post it!!

-----------------------------------------------------------------

2.3L EcoBoost​

Tools Needed​

• 15mm socket
• Oil filter wrench/pliers

Oil​

• Amount: 6.0 quarts
• Viscosity: 5W-30
• Specification: Ford WSS-M2C961-A1

Oil Drain Plug​

• Part No. 9L8Z-6730-A
• Type: 15mm Bolt Plug
• Torque spec: 27 Nm (20 lb.ft)

Oil Filter​

• Motorcraft Part No. FL-910-S
• Type: Spin-on
• Torque Spec: 8 Nm (71 lb.in) + 180°
• Location: Driver's side of engine--accessible from driver's front wheel well

Notes​

• Oil drain plug
  • Inspect integrated gasket and replace bolt plug if necessary
  • Location
    • Plastic shields
      • Behind the rear-most plastic shield. Six 15mm bolts need to be wrenched to access the plug. Note the front left and front right bolts do not need to be completely removed to remove the shield.
      • Torque spec for bolts: 30 Nm (22 lb.ft)
    • Front Bash plates
      • Behind the rear-most bash plate. Four 15mm bolts need to be wrenched to access the plug. Note the the front two bolts do not need to be completely removed.
      • Torque spec for bolts: 30 Nm (22 lb.ft)
    • Full body bash plates
      • Behind the middle bash plate. Four 15mm bolts need to be wrenched to access the plug. Note the the front two bolts do not need to be completely removed.
      • Torque spec for bolts: 30 Nm (22 lb.ft)
• Oil Filter
  • It's a pain, patience grasshopper
  • Ford provides a channel for oil to drain from the oil filter mount to just behind front driver-side suspension
  • Be careful not cross-thread when installing the new oil filter

-----------------------------------------------------------------

2.7L EcoBoost​

Tools Needed​

• 15mm socket
• 27mm socket
• Socket extension
• Pick & hook set (optional, used to help replace O-rings)

Oil​

• Amount: 6.0 quarts (*See notes)
• Viscosity: 5W-30
• Specification: Ford WSS-M2C961-A1

Oil Drain Plug​

• Part No. KX6Z-6730-B
• Type: Plastic Plug

Oil Filter​

• Motorcraft Part No. FL-2062-A
• Type: Cartridge
• Housing Torque Spec: 24 Nm (18 lb.ft)
• Location: Engine bay, top front right (passenger side) of the engine just in front of the PCV hose, between the throttle body and the intake for the passenger-side turbo.

Notes​

• Oil drain plug
  • Plastic plug (yellow in color)
  • Inspect plug and plug o-rings, replace if necessary
  • Location
    • Plastic shields
      • Behind the rear-most plastic shield. Six 15mm bolts need to be wrenched to access the plug. Note the front left and front right bolts do not need to be completely removed to remove the shield.
      • Torque spec for bolts: 30 Nm (22 lb.ft)
    • Front Bash plates
      • Behind the rear-most bash plate. Four 15mm bolts need to be wrenched to access the plug. Note the the front two bolts do not need to be completely removed.
      • Torque spec for bolts: 30 Nm (22 lb.ft)
    • Full body bash plates
      • Behind the middle bash plate. Four 15mm bolts need to be wrenched to access the plug. Note the the front two bolts do not need to be completely removed.
      • Torque spec for bolts: 30 Nm (22 lb.ft)
• Oil Filter
  • Ensure to replace O-rings with each filter change (3 in total)
• Oil Capacity
  • Early printings of the Bronco manual listed a 7.0 quarts oil capacity. Ford has confirmed this is incorrect (via SSM 50981) and has updated the workshop manual as well as the electronic & in-car versions of the owner's manual to state 6.0 quarts. It should be noted that Ford has also stated that 7.0 quarts will not harm the engine.

RagnarKon

This is not intended to be a full how-to guide... there is plenty of those on the internet. More just a quick reference for those who already know how to do oil changes and just want the information without having to watch a full 10+ minute YouTube video on the subject.

If you have a favorite video (perhaps one you created yourself), or have some helpful tips, post it!!

-----------------------------------------------------------------

2.3L EcoBoost​

Tools Needed​

• 15mm socket
• Oil filter wrench/pliers

Oil​

• Amount: 6.0 quarts
• Viscosity: 5W-30
• Specification: Ford WSS-M2C961-A1

Oil Drain Plug​

• Part No. 9L8Z-6730-A
• Type: 15mm Bolt Plug
• Torque spec: 27 Nm (20 lb.ft)

Oil Filter​

• Motorcraft Part No. FL-910-S
• Type: Spin-on
• Torque Spec: 8 Nm (71 lb.in) + 180°
• Location: Driver's side of engine--accessible from driver's front wheel well

Notes​

• Oil drain plug
  • Inspect integrated gasket and replace bolt plug if necessary
  • Location
    • Plastic shields
      • Behind the rear-most plastic shield. Six 15mm bolts need to be wrenched to access the plug. Note the front left and front right bolts do not need to be completely removed to remove the shield.
      • Torque spec for bolts: 30 Nm (22 lb.ft)
    • Front Bash plates
      • Behind the rear-most bash plate. Four 15mm bolts need to be wrenched to access the plug. Note the the front two bolts do not need to be completely removed.
      • Torque spec for bolts: 30 Nm (22 lb.ft)
    • Full body bash plates
      • Behind the middle bash plate. Four 15mm bolts need to be wrenched to access the plug. Note the the front two bolts do not need to be completely removed.
      • Torque spec for bolts: 30 Nm (22 lb.ft)
• Oil Filter
  • It's a pain, patience grasshopper
  • Ford provides a channel for oil to drain from the oil filter mount to just behind front driver-side suspension
  • Be careful not cross-thread when installing the new oil filter

-----------------------------------------------------------------

2.7L EcoBoost​

Tools Needed​

• 15mm socket
• 27mm socket
• Socket extension
• Pick & hook set (optional, used to help replace O-rings)

Oil​

• Amount: 6.0 quarts (*See notes)
• Viscosity: 5W-30
• Specification: Ford WSS-M2C961-A1

Oil Drain Plug​

• Part No. KX6Z-6730-B
• Type: Plastic Plug

Oil Filter​

• Motorcraft Part No. FL-2062-A
• Type: Cartridge
• Housing Torque Spec: 24 Nm (18 lb.ft)
• Location: Engine bay, top front right (passenger side) of the engine just in front of the PCV hose, between the throttle body and the intake for the passenger-side turbo.

Notes​

• Oil drain plug
  • Plastic plug (yellow in color)
  • Inspect plug and plug o-rings, replace if necessary
  • Location
    • Plastic shields
      • Behind the rear-most plastic shield. Six 15mm bolts need to be wrenched to access the plug. Note the front left and front right bolts do not need to be completely removed to remove the shield.
      • Torque spec for bolts: 30 Nm (22 lb.ft)
    • Front Bash plates
      • Behind the rear-most bash plate. Four 15mm bolts need to be wrenched to access the plug. Note the the front two bolts do not need to be completely removed.
      • Torque spec for bolts: 30 Nm (22 lb.ft)
    • Full body bash plates
      • Behind the middle bash plate. Four 15mm bolts need to be wrenched to access the plug. Note the the front two bolts do not need to be completely removed.
      • Torque spec for bolts: 30 Nm (22 lb.ft)
• Oil Filter
  • Ensure to replace O-rings with each filter change (3 in total)
• Oil Capacity
  • Early printings of the Bronco manual listed a 7.0 quarts oil capacity. Ford has confirmed this is incorrect (via SSM 50981) and has updated the workshop manual as well as the electronic & in-car versions of the owner's manual to state 6.0 quarts. It should be noted that Ford has also stated that 7.0 quarts will not harm the engine.

How often to do you change your oil? I have the 2.3l and I only have 1500 miles on it. Thanks for the info.

Kcfitterer

How often to do you change your oil? I have the 2.3l and I only have 1500 miles on it. Thanks for the info.

The first oil change I do after the break-in period... which for the EcoBoost is 1000 miles. I will fully admit that this is probably overkill, it's kind of an old-school recommendation to get rid of any left-over junk from the machining process. Likely not needed with today's machining techniques.

After that... every 4000 - 7000 miles depending on how hard I'm driving the Bronco. If it's largely highway miles... closer to 7000 miles. If it's a bunch of off-roading or towing... then closer to 4000. Average is probably every 5000-6000 miles.

Ford will recommend to follow the oil life monitor.

To reset oil life monitor:

Main Power ON (press Start button without pressing brake)
Menu/Settings/Oil Life/Press and hold OK until it resets

Great write up! I'll add that for the 2.3L you should give the oil filter a slight loosen to allow the dirty oil to properly go down the ramp without pouring out everywhere. Just like a half turn loose will do it and make sure the oil bucket is in proper spot before loosening. If you turn it too loose the oil goes everywhere. Can reach in through the driver side wheel well on black diamond to get to filter easily. Didn't even have to jack the bronco up.

you have to replace the drain plug at every refill?
I just had my first oil change/tire rotation done... and had them do full synthetic - it was $110.00... that seems worth it to me to not have to deal with the hassle and save a couple bucks

Calgecko

you have to replace the drain plug at every refill?
I just had my first oil change/tire rotation done... and had them do full synthetic - it was $110.00... that seems worth it to me to not have to deal with the hassle and save a couple bucks

Naw, there is no need to replace the drain plug unless the gasket (2.3L) or O-rings (2.7L) are damaged. My 2013 Focus has the same oil drain plug as the 2.3L Bronco, and I've replaced the drain plug once (maybe twice? can't recall) throughout the past decade I've owned it.

And my oil changes/tire rotation costs me $35 in oil (Pennzoil Ultra Platinum) and about 30 minutes of my time. Oil filter I get for free in bulk by using FordPass points (I have three Fords and they all use the same filter)... but I think the cash value is around $8/ea.

If you have a coupon you can get an oil change at the dealer for $45... but usually its around $70+, and obviously if you ask them to use full synthetic it costs more. On a good day it'll take them 20 minutes, but usually they're running a bit behind and it takes them 30-60 minutes (give or take). Include the 10-15 minute drive to the dealership and back, and you're looking at anywhere from 45 minutes to an hour and a half... or potentially even more if you catch them on a bad day.

I definitely don't begrudge people who don't do their own oil changes. But for me... it's a significant time and cost savings to do it myself--especially considering I can knock out all three of my vehicles on the same day in about an hour and a half.