[How-To] Bronco Factory Speaker Replacement

RagnarKon

For awhile now, I've been writing up a how-to article on how to replace the factory speakers for those who are relatively new to car audio and/or aren't necessarily super comfortable with working on their vehicle. I was never happy with that article, and eventually that written article morphed into a video instead.

For those who have done car audio before... you'll notice this is a fairly light-weight no-frills install. No sound baffling or anything like that. I am extremely confident with electronics, but car audio is still relatively new to me. So I am very interested if anyone did the install differently—particularly the removal/install of the kick panel speaker, or the inclusion of sound baffles/mats.

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TL:DR—

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Rear Pod Speaker Removal​

1. Remove speaker grille with a trim removal tool. There will be (4) clips holding the grille on.
2. Remove the speaker held on by (2) Phillips head screws

Front Dash Speaker Removal​

1. Remove the speaker grille with a trim removal tool. There are (5) clips total holding the grille on.
2. Remove the speaker held on by (2) 7mm screws

Kick Panel Speaker Removal

1. Remove the (4) TP-30 "Bronco bolts" securing instrument panel grab panel to the vehicle.
2. Remove the grab handle completely, there are (2) clips securing the rear of the grab handle to the panel.
3. Remove the cowl side trim panel with a trim removal tool. There are (4) clips total securing the panel. Note that (2) of those clips are securing the bottom of the trim piece and are very difficult to remove.
4. Remove the scuff plate trim panel to expose the cable tray with a trim removal tool. 4-door Bronco has (7) clips. 2-door has (9) clips total.
5. [Drive Side Only] Release the dead-pedal
   1. Remove the dead-pedal trim cover with a trim removal tool. There are (6) clips total.
   2. Use a 10mm deep socket to remove the (2) nuts securing the dead-pedal to the vehicle
6. Remove the speaker grille. There are (2) clips securing the speaker grille. These clips are along the forward edge (closest to front of vehicle) of the speaker grille. Do not pry from the rear edge of the grille.
7. Remove the lower cowl side trim panel with a trim removal tool. There are (3) clips securing the panel.
8. Remove the (3) 7mm screws to release the speaker.

Excellent job!

Great video! I haven't actually started tackling mine yet, but a few things I wanted to point out based on others videos I've watched.

1.) The dash speaker grilles have a lip along the edge closest to the cabin. So use the trim tool to pry up the left, right, and front side, and then push the grille slightly forward while lifting it out. I've seen some guys break off part of that lip by prying on the side nearest the cabin.

2.) I've seen quite a few videos where folks add bass blockers to the 4" speakers because, as you get some more oomf out of your system, the bass signal will cause the 4" speakers to distort.

I also have a question for anyone who may have experience with adding a small amplifier and sub to the equation. I'm looking at adding an Infinity Basslink SM2. It is an amp and 8" sub contained in a small enclosure. Rather than trying to get to the back of the head unit, I'm planning on using a Line Out Converter (LOC) to tap into the speaker wire to get the signal. I saw a video where a guy added a JBL Go or something like that, and when he tapped into the rear speaker wires, the sub was just not putting out the quality and amount of sound he was expecting. When he tapped into the 6" kick panel speakers, it fixed the issue. Does this sound like user error the first time around? Or is there something to his belief that the rear speakers did not have adequate signal for some reason? I only ask, because tapping into the rear speaker wires would be a much cleaner install, considering I want to put this in the back somewhere.

nrlucas

Great video! I haven't actually started tackling mine yet, but a few things I wanted to point out based on others videos I've watched.

1.) The dash speaker grilles have a lip along the edge closest to the cabin. So use the trim tool to pry up the left, right, and front side, and then push the grille slightly forward while lifting it out. I've seen some guys break off part of that lip by prying on the side nearest the cabin.

2.) I've seen quite a few videos where folks add bass blockers to the 4" speakers because, as you get some more oomf out of your system, the bass signal will cause the 4" speakers to distort.

I also have a question for anyone who may have experience with adding a small amplifier and sub to the equation. I'm looking at adding an Infinity Basslink SM2. It is an amp and 8" sub contained in a small enclosure. Rather than trying to get to the back of the head unit, I'm planning on using a Line Out Converter (LOC) to tap into the speaker wire to get the signal. I saw a video where a guy added a JBL Go or something like that, and when he tapped into the rear speaker wires, the sub was just not putting out the quality and amount of sound he was expecting. When he tapped into the 6" kick panel speakers, it fixed the issue. Does this sound like user error the first time around? Or is there something to his belief that the rear speakers did not have adequate signal for some reason? I only ask, because tapping into the rear speaker wires would be a much cleaner install, considering I want to put this in the back somewhere.

I've been passively looking into changing out my B&O speakers. You mentioned bass blockers. I've made note of these and could make the swap a little easier.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/334548928050?hash=item4de4ab8632:g:AD8AAOSw-Cxitkan
https://www.ebay.com/itm/334484403052?hash=item4de0d2f36c:g:AD8AAOSw-Cxitkan

nrlucas

Great video! I haven't actually started tackling mine yet, but a few things I wanted to point out based on others videos I've watched.

1.) The dash speaker grilles have a lip along the edge closest to the cabin. So use the trim tool to pry up the left, right, and front side, and then push the grille slightly forward while lifting it out. I've seen some guys break off part of that lip by prying on the side nearest the cabin.

2.) I've seen quite a few videos where folks add bass blockers to the 4" speakers because, as you get some more oomf out of your system, the bass signal will cause the 4" speakers to distort.

The front edge is a good tip. I was aware of it but I think I was too concerned about it and as a result ended up breaking the back clip. 😫

100% agree with adding bass blockers to the dashboard 4" speakers. Bass blockers for the rear pods are probably not necessary to be honest. A bass blocker effectively is a high-pass filter, and Ford already has a high-pass filter applied from the factory. BUT, they are relatively cheap, so there is really no downside to adding one.

Great video @RagnorKon! Plan on doing my soon and this video will be super helpful. Much appreciated!👍

RagnarKon

For awhile now, I've been writing up a how-to article on how to replace the factory speakers for those who are relatively new to car audio and/or aren't necessarily super comfortable with working on their vehicle. I was never happy with that article, and eventually that written article morphed into a video instead.

​

TL; DW—

​

Rear Pod Speaker Removal​

1. Remove speaker grille with a trim removal tool. There will be (4) clips holding the grille on.
2. Remove the speaker held on by (2) Phillips head screws

Front Dash Speaker Removal​

1. Remove the speaker grille with a trim removal tool. There are (5) clips total holding the grille on.
2. Remove the speaker held on by (2) 7mm screws

Kick Panel Speaker Removal

1. Remove the (4) TP-30 "Bronco bolts" securing instrument panel grab panel to the vehicle.
2. Remove the grab handle completely, there are (2) clips securing the rear of the grab handle to the panel.
3. Remove the cowl side trim panel with a trim removal tool. There are (4) clips total securing the panel. Note that (2) of those clips are securing the bottom of the trim piece and are very difficult to remove.
4. Remove the scuff plate trim panel to expose the cable tray with a trim removal tool. 4-door Bronco has (7) clips. 2-door has (9) clips total.
5. [Driver Side Only] Release the dead-pedal
   1. Remove the dead-pedal trim cover with a trim removal tool. There are (6) clips total.
   2. Use a 10mm deep socket to remove the (2) nuts securing the dead-pedal to the vehicle
6. Remove the speaker grille. There are (2) clips securing the speaker grille. These clips are along the forward edge (closest to front of vehicle) of the speaker grille. Do not pry from the rear edge of the grille.
7. Remove the lower cowl side trim panel with a trim removal tool. There are (3) clips securing the panel.
8. Remove the (3) 7mm screws to release the speaker.

For those who have done car audio before... you'll notice this is a fairly light-weight no-frills install. No sound baffling or anything like that. I am extremely confident with electronics, but car audio is still relatively new to me. So I am very interested if anyone did the install differently—particularly the removal/install of the kick panel speaker, or the inclusion of sound baffles/mats.

Wow man what a great video! Very informative and done ✔️ in an interesting and entertaining way.
You literally helped most everyone. The DYI crowd, the not sure crowd, and folks like me that are totally 💯 % not going to mess with it.
I would have bought my Bronco if it only came with just a single speaker 🔈.
The machine baby, the machine…

RagnarKon

The front edge is a good tip. I was aware of it but I think I was too concerned about it and as a result ended up breaking the back clip. 😫

100% agree with adding bass blockers to the dashboard 4" speakers. Bass blockers for the rear pods are probably not necessary to be honest. A bass blocker effectively is a high-pass filter, and Ford already has a high-pass filter applied from the factory. BUT, they are relatively cheap, so there is really no downside to adding one.

Hi, RagnarKon:

Really great video.

I have the base sound system and replaced the four 4” speakers with JL C2’s. That’s all I’m doing for now. No amp, sub, etc.

Would you still recommend 300 Hz bass blockers for that set up? I don’t have them now, and it does seem a bit bass heavy out of the dash.

ToddGreen

Hi, RagnarKon:

Really great video.

I have the base sound system and replaced the four 4” speakers with JL C2’s. That’s all I’m doing for now. No amp, sub, etc.

Would you still recommend 300 Hz bass blockers for that set up? I don’t have them now, and it does seem a bit bass heavy out of the dash.

For the dash speakers, yes, I would recommend it. You’ll get a lot more “clarity” out of the dash speakers with a bass blocker. For the rear pods it doesn’t matter too much.

I do intend eventually add a subwoofer, so I personally added 300 Hz bass blockers. But if you have no intention on adding a subwoofer or an amp, it may be a better idea to get a 150 Hz bass blockers just so you don’t take too much of that lower range away.

Bass blockers are relatively cheap though, around $10 for a set of two. So if you get a 300 Hz set and feel like you lost too much bass it isn’t too big of a deal to switch to 150 Hz blockers.

Great / Fun video.
I changed mine out last summer.
But not the kick panels.

The trim removal tools,
Similar to yours…
I sanded down one of the ends , in order to get in the tight gap on the dash covers easier.
Thanks for sharing.

This is excellent DIY stuff, especially getting the panels off. I am still trying to figure out the door panels (hopefully without breaking anything).

Doing the speaker swap is lower on my list, but we do…… appreciate you showing us what needs to be done.

RagnarKon

For the dash speakers, yes, I would recommend it. You’ll get a lot more “clarity” out of the dash speakers with a bass blocker. For the rear pods it doesn’t matter too much.

I do intend eventually add a subwoofer, so I personally added 300 Hz bass blockers. But if you have no intention on adding a subwoofer or an amp, it may be a better idea to get a 150 Hz bass blockers just so you don’t take too much of that lower range away.

Bass blockers are relatively cheap though, around $10 for a set of two. So if you get a 300 Hz set and feel like you lost too much bass it isn’t too big of a deal to switch to 150 Hz blockers.

Okay, RagnarKon. I'm leaning towards the 300 Hz, personally. But I saw one of your posts on the 6g forum where you determined that the factory 4" speakers had built-in 400 Hz bass blockers. Should I stay away from those? 300 Hz is the max that you would consider at this point?

RagnarKon

For the dash speakers, yes, I would recommend it. You’ll get a lot more “clarity” out of the dash speakers with a bass blocker. For the rear pods it doesn’t matter too much.

I do intend eventually add a subwoofer, so I personally added 300 Hz bass blockers. But if you have no intention on adding a subwoofer or an amp, it may be a better idea to get a 150 Hz bass blockers just so you don’t take too much of that lower range away.

Bass blockers are relatively cheap though, around $10 for a set of two. So if you get a 300 Hz set and feel like you lost too much bass it isn’t too big of a deal to switch to 150 Hz blockers.

One last question - So the 400 Hz blocker was actually built in to the speaker assembly itself?

ToddGreen

One last question - So the 400 Hz blocker was actually built in to the speaker assembly itself?

On the factory 4” speakers there is a capacitor attached to the side, which is probably a high pass filter circuit but admittedly I didn’t actually look that closely at it. I’ll take a look tomorrow if I have time.

The rear pod speakers have a roughly 350-400 Hz high pass filter applied by equalizer on the factory ACM. Which is why they really don’t need a bass blocker.

RagnarKon

On the factory 4” speakers there is a capacitor attached to the side, which is probably a high pass filter circuit but admittedly I didn’t actually look that closely at it. I’ll take a look tomorrow if I have time.

The rear pod speakers have a roughly 350-400 Hz high pass filter applied by equalizer on the factory ACM. Which is why they really don’t need a bass blocker.

Thanks. So for the dash speakers, is 300 Hz the max you would consider? Or would 400 Hz be something to consider?

ToddGreen

Thanks. So for the dash speakers, is 300 Hz the max you would consider? Or would 400 Hz be something to consider?

Personally I listen to a lot of rock, country, and trance, so I would probably do 300 Hz. BUT, I don’t think most people would notice a difference between 300 Hz and 400 Hz unless they were sitting side-by-side.

400 Hz is also kind of an uncommon bass blocker. They usually come in 150, 300, 600, 1200, 2500, and 5000hz.

I'm perfectly happy with the B&O sound system in my Bronco. Perhaps it's the acoustics of a smaller vehicle (2-door vs 4-door) or the fact that I'm not all that demanding of my audio setup. I guess I'm easy to please. That said, I do want to perform other electrical mods (lights, etc) that will require the right tools.

I've got a basic set (which is expanding exponentially every payday), but one of the items in your toolbox piqued my curiosity. The cloth tape. I want some of that. I like the idea that aftermarket wiring can be made to look like original equipment. So, where do I get this stuff? Ford?

BuckYeah

I've got a basic set (which is expanding exponentially every payday), but one of the items in your toolbox piqued my curiosity. The cloth tape. I want some of that. I like the idea that aftermarket wiring can be made to look like original equipment. So, where do I get this stuff? Ford?

I don't know who supplies Ford's tape to be honest, but I use Tesa for just about all of my specialty tapes. For interiors I use Tesa 51608, and for the engine bay I use Tesa 51036. (In this video I used 51036 even though it was interior wiring because I have no idea where I put my 51608 tape... garden gnomes stole it I think.)

I assume the tape is called "cloth tape" by mechanics because it was actually actually cloth in the past—but nowadays its a thermoplastic fiber/fleece material or woven fiberglass. Usually an online search for "automotive cloth tape" will find it pretty easily, but I've also seen it sold as "wire harness tape" or "glass cloth tape" or "friction tape". Occasionally you can find 3M's version at automotive supply stores, but otherwise it's a pretty rare thing to find in local shops.

RagnarKon

Personally I listen to a lot of rock, country, and trance, so I would probably do 300 Hz. BUT, I don’t think most people would notice a difference between 300 Hz and 400 Hz unless they were sitting side-by-side.

400 Hz is also kind of an uncommon bass blocker. They usually come in 150, 300, 600, 1200, 2500, and 5000hz.

Thanks, as always.

Long live rock & roll!

RagnarKon

Personally I listen to a lot of rock, country, and trance, so I would probably do 300 Hz. BUT, I don’t think most people would notice a difference between 300 Hz and 400 Hz unless they were sitting side-by-side.

400 Hz is also kind of an uncommon bass blocker. They usually come in 150, 300, 600, 1200, 2500, and 5000hz.

Are there any meaningful differences between the various brands of 300 Hz bass blockers out there? I was considering getting the Crutchfield one but thought I'd check to see whether another brand is better for any reason for a few bucks more.