New 1968 Bronco Sport owner

What’s my rig worth?

Too late for that game (unless immediate restore’n resale - a calculation determination if U can make $). U bought so move forward.

First make sure U gota rig that will retain ur interest over the nxt 5 to 10 yrs. (unless a pro restorer who sells). Should it have been a racy stang instead? These are not flying bricks. You need this interest to research the actual prts of import on there now (over 50 yrs. of PO's mods), understand what the rig is capable of and develop the end goal U want for ur specific use (more on rd.?, off rd.? grocery getter, mud, rocks, 2 lane blk top, dirt rds., what will 80% of the RMPs 4 this rig B?, what octane gas? etc., etc.). As in all automotive Qs the answ is in "What's the application?" most important in a multipurpose like the bronk or EB. Look at some of those listed on the sale sites above to C how far-off course they can go. Re-dick-U-loss.


Short answ (again to maintain interest) is get it running, stopping and safe.

No r. bar needed unless going on the more extreme gradients. Here most are NOT frame tied. Do so, seen too many w/the ‘feet’ sticking up above the floor boards (pressed thru when upside down). So that includes things like exh being drawn into the pass compartment (yeah, I no – I did it as a kid too but it’s cumulative damage). Many of us (2nd owner, long term owners, sure others too) buy them for DIY, to wrench on. It is nota knuckle dragin neanderthal type endeavor. Some is precise and heavily scientific, frustrating, fun, sense of accomplishment & more. Mine made an income close to 40 yrs., now a restore & retire to a 20 something daughter. It’s a “bonding’ and teaching project for a girl who can take guidance and is very interested in the end game. Good luck, get a Chiltons or Haynes, if wealthy the actual ford shop manuals'n go to town! Hook up w/any of the 100s of on-line owners clubs for support, prts, problem solving'n comradship (I do so for OEM swapins to upgrade like '73/7 F250 'wan tuns').

chrlsful

What’s my rig worth?

Too late for that game (unless immediate restore’n resale - a calculation determination if U can make $). U bought so move forward.

First make sure U gota rig that will retain ur interest over the nxt 5 to 10 yrs. (unless a pro restorer who sells). Should it have been a racy stang instead? These are not flying bricks. You need this interest to research the actual prts of import on there now (over 50 yrs. of PO's mods), understand what the rig is capable of and develop the end goal U want for ur specific use (more on rd.?, off rd.? grocery getter, mud, rocks, 2 lane blk top, dirt rds., what will 80% of the RMPs 4 this rig B?, what octane gas? etc., etc.). As in all automotive Qs the answ is in "What's the application?" most important in a multipurpose like the bronk or EB. Look at some of those listed on the sale sites above to C how far-off course they can go. Re-dick-U-loss.


Short answ (again to maintain interest) is get it running, stopping and safe.

No r. bar needed unless going on the more extreme gradients. Here most are NOT frame tied. Do so, seen too many w/the ‘feet’ sticking up above the floor boards (pressed thru when upside down). So that includes things like exh being drawn into the pass compartment (yeah, I no – I did it as a kid too but it’s cumulative damage). Many of us (2nd owner, long term owners, sure others too) buy them for DIY, to wrench on. It is nota knuckle dragin neanderthal type endeavor. Some is precise and heavily scientific, frustrating, fun, sense of accomplishment & more. Mine made an income close to 40 yrs., now a restore & retire to a 20 something daughter. It’s a “bonding’ and teaching project for a girl who can take guidance and is very interested in the end game. Good luck, get a Chiltons or Haynes, if wealthy the actual ford shop manuals'n go to town! Hook up w/any of the 100s of on-line owners clubs for support, prts, problem solving'n comradship (I do so for OEM swapins to upgrade like '73/7 F250 'wan tuns').

Going to 100% disagree with you here. The more time an early bronco spends on the street, the better cage it needs and the more important it is to have it tied to the frame. That said, none of mine are tied to the frame. Driving on the road with no cage is foolish. In a last 30y I've seen close to a dozen roll overs when crawling, all were slow, look scary of course but slow and nobody ended up with a scratch even. Rolling over slowly at 5mph or less doesn't even compare with over correcting on the road at 25mph even let alone higher speeds. Google early bronco crashes and take a look at what's left of them. I know folks drove them for decades as daily drivers with no cages, but we know better now and there are some great cages out there.

"...100% disagree..."
glad to see the debate (not 4 me to join tho). I;m unconvinced a stock EB needs a cage to drive in today's traffic even asa
vehicle made for the conditions well over 25 yrs ago: the cellie (in car phone use), eating while driving, higher speeds,
higher volumn, updated tires, etc, etc. I drive quite abit differently than a large percentage of today;s drivers (been on rd 50 yrs
and driving this rig since '83, 30% on rds less than 1/2 of that w/a trailer of fresh saw lumber). Glad U agree w/my "frame tied".
That is my main point.
Just like the 3 wheelers (banned ATVs) I say "Do not loan it. Ppl C that r.bar'n think it means safety. It is not.")
/OR/
"U can own/drive that Honda ATC90 - 250R (Big Red) even if 40k were banned. Just give full warning and explination to whatever adult U loan it to. No kids allowed." But don't believe there's a need for a frame tied (actually any) cage to drive a bronk down main st or onto I70, ona dirt rd or cart path around my prt of NE usa...
Back to the OP's Q. If U put some kinda bar or cage on it will B heavier, will B unable to pass under lower obsticals (your window frames actually pull out and the highest thing can B the steer wheel w/top off. w,shield dwn - I put in the 1 yr later model ('78) tilt wheel so can get a lill lower), may B a selling point (you seemed interested in that Q) to negotiate, and is only trustable if frame tied. Okie sez to get one if street driving~
There may B kits to get the bolt plate for either side of ur sheet metal body w/extention to frame. Not sure who sells as I have WH's 1 inch BL which has no block for extra lift & I have mig equp. I needed a ROPS on one vehicle as it's a woods "wrk truck" (quotes as these are just jeeps, not really 'trucks"). "I gotta bronk. Itsa good truck." No, itsa jeep...

chrlsful

"...100% disagree..."
glad to see the debate (not 4 me to join tho). I;m unconvinced a stock EB needs a cage to drive in today's traffic even asa
vehicle made for the conditions well over 25 yrs ago: the cellie (in car phone use), eating while driving, higher speeds,
higher volumn, updated tires, etc, etc. I drive quite abit differently than a large percentage of today;s drivers (been on rd 50 yrs
and driving this rig since '83, 30% on rds less than 1/2 of that w/a trailer of fresh saw lumber). Glad U agree w/my "frame tied".
That is my main point.
Just like the 3 wheelers (banned ATVs) I say "Do not loan it. Ppl C that r.bar'n think it means safety. It is not.")
/OR/
"U can own/drive that Honda ATC90 - 250R (Big Red) even if 40k were banned. Just give full warning and explination to whatever adult U loan it to. Not kids allowed." But don't believe there's a need for a frame tied (actually any) cage to drive a bronk down main st or onto I70, ona duty rd around my prt of NE usa...
Back to the OP's Q. If U put some kinda bar or cage on it will B heavier, will B unable to pass under lower obsticals (your window frames actually pull out and the highest thing can B the steer wheel w/top off. w,shield dwn - I put in the 1 yr later model ('78) tilt wheel so can get a lill lower), may B a selling point (you seemed interested in that) to negotiate, and is only trustable if frame tied. Okie sez to get one if street driving~
There may B kits to get the bolt plate for either side of ur sheet metal body w/extention to frame. Not sure who sells as I have WH's 1 inch BL which has no block for extra lift & I have mig equp. I needed a ROPS on one vehicle as it's a woods "wrk truck" (quotes as these are just jeeps, not really 'trucks").

Full disclosure here, I own a 1983 Honda 110ATC....with no brakes! Lmoa :)