Rear Brake Pads

@SlashRacer
Just curious here....do you use the trail control ? Seems like pad wear is excessive with that few miles? I have wondered about exactly how trail control works so this is why I ask.

Sven

@SlashRacer
Just curious here....do you use the trail control ? Seems like pad wear is excessive with that few miles? I have wondered about exactly how trail control works so this is why I ask.

I have used the trail turn assist 10-15 times. Now you have me wondering if this isn’t why they wore faster than the front. :unsure:

SlashRacer

I have used the trail turn assist 10-15 times. Now you have me wondering if this isn’t why they have wore faster than the front. :unsure:

Trail control is the cruise control for off road....I don't think trail turn assist would wear this fast....again curious minds...blah blah blah......

Sven

Trail control is the cruise control for off road....I don't think trail turn assist would wear this fast....again curious minds...blah blah blah......

I don’t usually use trail control. The TTA mostly locks a rear tire while turning sharp.

SlashRacer

Told me I needed new calipers, pads and rotors and this is the quote. I asked if the calipers could be compressed and was told that once the pads are at 0 the calipers will not compress so they have to replace them.

Anyone know what’s up with this?

SlashRacer

Anyone know what’s up with this?

I sent that off to a buddy in WA that works for a Ford dealer..Will let you know what he has to say.
EDIT: said he will look into it and get back tomorrow. He also asked...could the parking brake be partially hung up but think you might smell that if it gets warm.....many questions for sure.

From my buddy Tim. Nobody I talked to has heard anything like that. My neighbor has one and he's a major nerd on the forums and stuff. The rears will wear faster if he's towing or hauling weight but other then that I don't know.

Have him go down there and make them show him why they can't be pushed back in. They might be just trying to make an extra buck.

Wow @SlashRacer how many miles you got on that sled? Dang $1400 is steep you can get a whole 2.2l crate motor for that. If you use trail turn properly I don’t see how it would wear out your brakes faster. But I have seen some folks use it in a way that would definitely wear those out. Seems a little odd that both are worn at the same time. Seems like one would wear more than the other.

Jakob1972

Wow @SlashRacer how many miles you got on that sled? Dang $1400 is steep you can get a whole 2.2l crate motor for that. If you use trail turn properly I don’t see how it would wear out your brakes faster. But I have seen some folks use it in a way that would definitely wear those out. Seems a little odd that both are worn at the same time. Seems like one would wear more than the other.

Just punched 28,810 on it.

It was built the first week of Dec 2021 and I still haven’t lost a valve on the 2.7L. 😎

IMO, 2 years and 28,000 miles and needing refurbishment of rear brakes seems a bit odd, unless there was a malfunction of the system. Brake calipers needing replacement because they are full of mud and the pistons can't be reset sounds like complete BS.

I'm not familiar with exactly how the electronic parking brake works because I've not yet serviced the brakes on my Bronco, but I'll guess the plastic housing on the back of the caliper actuates a rod that pushes the piston in place of hydraulic pressure. Why the electronic actuator would not allow the piston to reset makes no sense.

If the pads are truly at 0% then you'd hear some God awful scraping sound and there would be iron dust residue stains on the wheels.

Have you looked at the pads and measured the thickness? Have you looked at brake fluid level? Is there any severe rust on the brake calipers? Are the rotor faces scarred?

My answer to the service advisor about mud causing these brake issues would be, "LOL, it's an off-road vehicle. I've seen pics and videos from FoMoCo Off Rodeos showing it running through mud."

I call BS on the “need” to replace the calipers because the pads were at zero - they are simple hydraulic rams, in & out is what they do!

SlashRacer

Went in for an oil change and tire rotation today and found out my rear brake pads are at 0. The dealership said the brakes wore out from mud being caked on the rear calipers. Yes….there was mud on them but I don’t think it was anymore than what was on the front calipers.

Told me I needed new calipers, pads and rotors and this is the quote. I asked if the calipers could be compressed and was told that once the pads are at 0 the calipers will not compress so they have to replace them.

Here is the quote for the work.



Of course I will be doing my own work for this. If you do your own brake work, watch this video!

I'm a little confused about this video. He states at the end of the video that the process for the rear brakes are essentially the same as the front. Its probably true that you unbolt the caliper and remove the pads the same way as the fronts, but unless Ford (and just about everyone else) has changed the way their rear caliper works, it takes a special tool similar to this one Brake Tool , to turn your piston while at the same time pushing it in. I guess time will tell.

I wish I had some time this weekend to give you a hand with this but the next 2 weekends I'll be out of town.

Deano Bronc

I'm a little confused about this video. He states at the end of the video that the process for the rear brakes are essentially the same as the front. Its probably true that you unbolt the caliper and remove the pads the same way as the fronts, but unless Ford (and just about everyone else) has changed the way their rear caliper works, it takes a special tool similar to this one Brake Tool , to turn your piston while at the same time pushing it in. I guess time will tell.

I wish I had some time this weekend to give you a hand with this but the next 2 weekends I'll be out of town.

I just watched the first few minutes of the video. So I can see where on the 2.7 with an electric power assist brake boost system you'd want to disable it. On the 2.3 vacuum boost if the engine is off there is no vacuum. On the 2.3 I've noticed the boost is not very good on first pedal push, which I assume is an artifact of turbo engines that don't have much manifold vacuum.

With the electic parking/emergency brake system, I can see were sensing a loss of hydraulic brake pressure could engage the electric actuation of the rear brakes. If I were to design a brake system that had electric actuation of the rear calipers, I'd surely use the electric system as backup for a loss in hydraulic pressure. I'd hope Ford designed it this way. When I eventually service the brakes on my Bronco, I'm just going to disconnect the battery for safe measure.

As for pushing the piston back to reset it, the trick I figured out is just open the bleeder screw and push the fluid in the caliper into a catch bottle, much like when you flush the system to replace the fluid. Opening the bleeder prevents back-pressurizing the brake system and most importantly the master cylinder.

My 2 cents.

Deano Bronc

I'm a little confused about this video. He states at the end of the video that the process for the rear brakes are essentially the same as the front. Its probably true that you unbolt the caliper and remove the pads the same way as the fronts, but unless Ford (and just about everyone else) has changed the way their rear caliper works, it takes a special tool similar to this one Brake Tool , to turn your piston while at the same time pushing it in. I guess time will tell.

I wish I had some time this weekend to give you a hand with this but the next 2 weekends I'll be out of town.

I hope you are wrong on that, I have those tools from when I owned a Hyundai years ago (think it was the Hyundai, maybe the Mustang, I don't remember). Those things are a major P.I.A., and annoying to use.

Sitting just under 42k miles now so I know I'll be doing brakes sooner rather than later. Already annoyed about having to do some stupid maintenance mode to begin with. Leave it to car manufacturers to make even the simplest of jobs a pain. 😡

EvlNvrDys

I hope you are wrong on that, I have those tools from when I owned a Hyundai years ago (think it was the Hyundai, maybe the Mustang, I don't remember). Those things are a major P.I.A., and annoying to use.

Sitting just under 42k miles now so I know I'll be doing brakes sooner rather than later. Already annoyed about having to do some stupid maintenance mode to begin with. Leave it to car manufacturers to make even the simplest of jobs a pain. 😡

I originally bought my kit for my Mustang but have used it on Dodges, Toyotas, and Mini Coopers. Seems to be a pretty universal design. You are right, a big pain in the ass.

I'm not sure why the design has to be different in the rear than the front although maybe it has to do with a cable actuated emergency brake. Since the Bronco uses electric, maybe it doesn't use the screw in design. We can only hope.

SlashRacer

Anyone know what’s up with this

sound a little fishy I would be shocked if the calipers can't be retracted. I will do so digging and get back to you

Ok Mike
the first thing I would do is inspect the pads for your self
if they need to be replaced you just put the brake system into maintenance mode see attached video the you just push in the calipers like an normal caliper. You do not have to turn them just push

Cornwelltoolman

Ok Mike
the first thing I would do is inspect the pads for your self
if they need to be replaced you just put the brake system into maintenance mode see attached video the you just push in the calipers like an normal caliper. You do not have to turn them just push

I had them show me and they are at 0. I have new pads on order and will install the pads when they get here. I will double check and clean any mud that may or may not be there anymore after I sprayed them off with the pressure washer.

New pads came in yesterday. Took all of 45 minutes to get them swapped out. There was still some pad left, so it was not metal on metal. I did not turn the rotors. Next time I replace the pads, I will replace the rotors also.

I purchased oem pads and they came with new bolts for mounting the calipers and new clips/guides(not sure of the correct name) that touch the ends of the pads.

Now that I’ve done them once, I’m sure I can do a pad swap in under 30 minutes. That includes lubricating the pins. :)