2.3 Manual clutch pop start problem- Dash Lights

Bummed that it doesn’t work, but not surprised. All the CPU’s and security features…probably a bygone era.

Smoothmove

My driveway is on a hill. So, I decided to put it in 2nd, roll and pop the clutch. It did not start and did not like it at all.Got a bunch of error messages, service soon, 4x4 error, brake errors, etc. Would not start or do anything. I pushed it to the side and let it sit for 10 minutes. Got in and it started right up without issue, It has been 100 miles since it happened.

I don't think it is a defect issue as much as a computer software issue. Maybe, It isn't programmed for old school clutch pop starting. I don't know. I am not going to the dealer as I don't want to be without my Bronco unless absolutely necessary.

Just posting as a "happened to me"

Could it have something to do with the push button start? How is the ignition turned on so it could fire and stay started?

I turned it on by pushing button for ignition without the clutch on. Thought it would work. Was wrong

It has to work some how..

Smoothmove

I turned it on by pushing button for ignition without the clutch on. Thought it would work. Was wrong

That could be the problem there, if you think about it (I assume manual is the same), you have to push in the brake to start the vehicle. Popping a clutch doesn't include the brake :unsure:

EvlNvrDys

That could be the problem there, if you think about it (I assume manual is the same), you have to push in the brake to start the vehicle. Popping a clutch doesn't include the brake :unsure:

If I’m understanding correctly,
They just hit the start/stop button without the Brake,
Which does turn on the accessories.
I don’t know if that turns on juice to the drivetrain,
Apparently not ?

14U

If I’m understanding correctly,
They just hit the start/stop button without the Brake,
Which does turn on the accessories.
I don’t know if that turns on juice to the drivetrain,
Apparently not ?

That's also true for the automatic trans, just hit stop/start to turn on accessories. But the final step is, push in brake and then hit stop/start to actually start the vehicle. So the assumption here is, vehicle just won't start without pushing in the brake.

But on the flip side, you auto start without pushing in the brake. So my theory could be wrong.

The bronco has the ability to start without pressing the clutch via "start in gear" which is also useful if you ever blow your clutch on trail but only if you can trip it to stall AFTER clutch fails and follow instructions on center gauge cluster. It would be great to have the ability to start in gear ON COMMAND (hardkey button) with manual transmission models. Call it the "clutch fail assist" button or something.

There must be a sequence to make this work. If it doesn't work then do what OP did and let the ECU reset after 10 minutes or so.

My first test would be popping the clutch while also quickly engaging the brake pedal and simultaneously pressing or holding the start button. You may even be able to keep the clutch pressed after on to limit foot work.

Side note. Holding the start button reminds of the ebrake where the 2.3 MT operator manual says to "pull and Hold" the ebrake lever if you need to stop quick in an emergency until bronco has fully stopped.

Sorry for the ramble.

Who wants to test it? I would but there are no hills here where I am in the desert.

If you "blow" the clutch there won't be any connection to the engine.Clutches either work or not.Usually clutches don't work because the disc is burnt up so there won't be any connection to the engine.

Ford needs to address this nonsense.Part of the reason for a manual is so you can pop start it.

Obviously the new designers have no idea how the “ideal versatility” of a stick should operate.

I think I’ve only push started due to a dead battery. I suppose a faulty starter could be a reason too.

With current technology, and all the computers /processors and such on-board, push starting isn’t going to happen.

Hope I’m wrong, just can’t think of a scenario when it’d work…

I'm seriously considering going old school and getting an older F-100 4X4, and doing alot of work to it

This whole notion of not being able to pop the clutch, along with all the computer gizmosis is really getting me concerned

Bronco V-8

If you "blow" the clutch there won't be any connection to the engine.Clutches either work or not.Usually clutches don't work because the disc is burnt up so there won't be any connection to the engine.

Ford needs to address this nonsense.Part of the reason for a manual is so you can pop start it.

My old 91 jeep renegade I6 MT could start from a stand still without pressing the clutch pedal. I miss that rig and my old raptor (see pic)! When my clutch blew out in my jeep once, I started the jeep while in gear without pressing the clutch and in leaped forward in 1st gear 4Lo. Then I mashed it into 2nd gear to get a little more speed. Made it back home from the trail. This concept is the same used in the 2.3 MT bronco "start in gear" feature.

It wasn't blown if it was engaged.

A blown clutch is in little prices scattered all over the place and your right foot looks like hamburger.

Bronco V-8

It wasn't blown if it was engaged.

A blown clutch is in little prices scattered all over the place and your right foot looks like hamburger.

The clutch wasn't engaged on start or shifts in my jeep when the clutch blew. Pls try reading my posts..

NT AUTOMOTIVE

The clutch wasn't engaged on start or shifts in my jeep when the clutch blew. Pls try reading my posts..

I think the issue is how we communicate clutch actuation. You said, "blew your clutch". But in reality, since you were able to start in gear and drive out, your clutch wasn't actually blown out, but what was damaged was either the slave cylinder (if hydraulic), the cable if cable-actuated, or the throwout bearing or the pressure plate such that it wouldn't release. These are distinct parts of a clutch, and generally, only the slave cylinder, or cable actuation, or throwout bearing or pressure plate can be blown and you still are able to move the vehicle. If you were to "blow" a clutch you would find you are unable to move your car.
When you press in the clutch pedal you are actually DISENGAGING the clutch. This happens by the throw-out bearing being pressed against the pressure plate, releasing the spring pressure that squeezes the clutch between the pressure plate and the flywheel.
When you release the clutch pedal you are actually engaging the clutch to the output shaft of the engine. This allows the full pressure of the pressure plate to apply to the clutch disk squeezing it between the pressure plate and the flywheel.
If you actually Blew your clutch disk, there wouldn't be material remaining to connect the crankshaft to the transmission and you wouldn't be able to move.

mike8675309

I think the issue is how we communicate clutch actuation. You said, "blew your clutch". But in reality, since you were able to start in gear and drive out, your clutch wasn't actually blown out, but what was damaged was either the slave cylinder (if hydraulic), the cable if cable-actuated, or the throwout bearing or the pressure plate such that it wouldn't release. These are distinct parts of a clutch, and generally, only the slave cylinder, or cable actuation, or throwout bearing or pressure plate can be blown and you still are able to move the vehicle. If you were to "blow" a clutch you would find you are unable to move your car.
When you press in the clutch pedal you are actually DISENGAGING the clutch. This happens by the throw-out bearing being pressed against the pressure plate, releasing the spring pressure that squeezes the clutch between the pressure plate and the flywheel.
When you release the clutch pedal you are actually engaging the clutch to the output shaft of the engine. This allows the full pressure of the pressure plate to apply to the clutch disk squeezing it between the pressure plate and the flywheel.
If you actually Blew your clutch disk, there wouldn't be material remaining to connect the crankshaft to the transmission and you wouldn't be able to move.

+1

don't have the patience

I have to quote the bard (Lyn Manuel Miranda as his famous Character, Hamilton):

"YOU MUST BE OUTA YOUR GODDAMED MIND!"

The days of roll starting manual transmissions are well and totally gone. I get it. I have always abused that feature BACK IN THE 20th CENTURY... which we are NOT in!

This is not a truck, this is a LAN party with tires and seats. You've got more CPUs than cylinders!

And, guess what! I don't roll start my 1958 Willys Utility Wagon either, you know why?

Because A) it's a colossal pain in the ass, and B) Noco made roll starting pointless.



Stop worrying about how to short circuit a modern car, and go out, and buy a Noco Boost for like $99, It will fit virtually ANYWHERE including the pockets of your cargo shorts!

(Bonus points for anyone who can divine the third reason I don't attempt to roll start my WIlly's Wagon!).

Who will be the first one to add the necessary wiring harness and other systems to both secure our bronco, but allow us to push start it should we need to?
I spotted this early prototype on Instagram for the 4-door. Maybe the 2 door will be coming soon?;)