Towing hitch and brake controller install help

Kseannau
Nov 04, 2025

Rank 0

Nov 04, 2025

Just a warning, this is ridiculously long. I tried to make it short, but it's just impossible to do it in writing. And it's hard to explain things I hope to put up a short video explaining this that I'll attach to this post. But I couldn't find anyone showing how they did a 7 pin. So I just had to figure it out myself. And so I wanted to put this up so it would hopefully help anyone else that was stuck trying to figure this out. You only need a 7 pin. If you have brakes on your trailer, which either it comes with or they're over a certain weight. Also I did all this on my phone, usually while doing other stuff. And I don't go back to edit very much, so sorry.

So you don't have to read all my terrible writing.Here's a link to the videos that's also terrible.That I did trying to explain how I did a seven pin on my bronco:



Also if you're wondering the trailer I tow is a Clipper 9000 ROK. It's just a nice place to go to sleep and you can get out of the rain and it has a refrigerator and a sink with a big twenty seven gallon water tank, and it has a propane outlet, and it has a solar panel and 2 100 amp hour marine batteries it cost me sixteen thousand three hundred dollars out the door at General RV in salt lake city in august of 2024 and my experienceand my experience at leastand my experience at least wasand my experience at least was fairly goodand my experience at least was fairly good.The only thing I didn't like is they did tryand my experience at least was fairly good.The only thing I didn't like is they did try toand my experience at least was fairly good.The only thing I didn't like is they did try to upsell me like twenty seven hundred for like shipping cost or somethingand my experience at least was fairly good.The only thing I didn't like is they did try to upsell me like twenty seven hundred for like shipping cost?Or something on their website, they had the trailerand my experience at least was fairly good.The only thing I didn't like is they did try to upsell me like twenty seven hundred for like shipping cost?Or something on their website, they had the trailer at 13,999 and I told him, that's all I could payand I told him, that's all I could pay.And so they took that off, and it was that price plus tax title and tax was that price plus tax title and tax?Which came out was that price plus tax title and tax?Which came out to almost exactly 16,300 out the doorout the door and I ended up selling my rooftop tent to a friend for twelve hundred bucksout the door and I ended up selling my rooftop tent to a friend for 1200 bucks. soso it kind of cost me fifteenso it kind of cost me 15,100. And i'm just putting this here to hopefully helpAnd i'm just putting this here to hopefully help people realizeAnd i'm just putting this here to hopefully help people realize that you never have to pay the price.They say always negotiateAnd i'm just putting this here to hopefully help people realize that you never have to pay the price.They say always negotiate andAnd i'm just putting this here to hopefully help people realize that you never have to pay the price.They say always negotiate, and I found a lot of these gone for way moreAnd i'm just putting this here to hopefully help people realize that you never have to pay the price.They say always negotiate, and I found a lot of these gone for way.More soAnd i'm just putting this here to hopefully help people realize that you never have to pay the price.They say always negotiate, and I found a lot of these gone for way.More, so just keep looking, find the best dealAnd i'm just putting this here to hopefully help people realize that you never have to pay the price.They say always negotiate, and I found a lot of these gone for way.More, so just keep looking, find the best deal.And also make sure and testAnd i'm just putting this here to hopefully help people realize that you never have to pay the price.They say always negotiate, and I found a lot of these gone for way.More, so just keep looking, find the best deal.And also, make sure and test everythingAnd i'm just putting this here to hopefully help people realize that you never have to pay the price.They say always negotiate, and I found a lot of these gone for way.More, so just keep looking, find the best deal.And also make sure and test everything, because as soon as you drive off that lotAnd i'm just putting this here to hopefully help people realize that you never have to pay the price.They say always negotiate, and I found a lot of these gone for way.More, so just keep looking, find the best deal.And also make sure and test everything, because as soon as you drive off that lot, that's yours.And I can guaranteeAnd i'm just putting this here to hopefully help people realize that you never have to pay the price.They say always negotiate, and I found a lot of these gone for way.More, so just keep looking, find the best deal.And also make sure and test everything, because as soon as you drive off that lot, that's yours.And I can guarantee if they do fix itAnd i'm just putting this here to hopefully help people realize that you never have to pay the price.They say always negotiate, and I found a lot of these gone for way.More, so just keep looking, find the best deal.And also make sure and test everything, because as soon as you drive off that lot, that's yours.And I can guarantee if they do fix it if they fix itAnd i'm just putting this here to hopefully help people realize that you never have to pay the price.They say always negotiate, and I found a lot of these gone for way.More, so just keep looking, find the best deal.And also make sure and test everything, because as soon as you drive off that lot, that's yours.And I can guarantee if they do fix it if they fix it.It's going to take foreverAnd i'm just putting this here to hopefully help people realize that you never have to pay the price.They say always negotiate, and I found a lot of these gone for way.More, so just keep looking, find the best deal.And also make sure and test everything, because as soon as you drive off that lot, that's yours.And I can guarantee if they do fix it if they fix it.It's going to take forever and it's going to be sittingAnd i'm just putting this here to hopefully help people realize that you never have to pay the price.They say always negotiate, and I found a lot of these gone for way.More, so just keep looking, find the best deal.And also make sure and test everything, because as soon as you drive off that lot, that's yours.And I can guarantee if they do fix it if they fix it.It's going to take forever and it's going to be sitting at that rv.ShopAnd i'm just putting this here to hopefully help people realize that you never have to pay the price.They say always negotiate, and I found a lot of these gone for way.More, so just keep looking, find the best deal.And also make sure and test everything, because as soon as you drive off that lot, that's yours.And I can guarantee if they do fix it if they fix it.It's going to take forever and it's going to be sitting at that rv.Shop for monthAnd i'm just putting this here to hopefully help people realize that you never have to pay the price.They say always negotiate, and I found a lot of these gone for way.More, so just keep looking, find the best deal.And also make sure and test everything, because as soon as you drive off that lot, that's yours.And I can guarantee if they do fix it if they fix it.It's going to take forever and it's going to be sitting at that rv.Shop for months. I tried to take mine in just to get the rough rack, replaced and one other teeny, tiny thing, and it sat at a camping world for over a month.And they hadn't even gotten to it and they lost my keys. So if you're going to buy a trailer, I would be prepared to do some of your own repairs as well.I've heard some manufacturers will send parts to people.They would not for me.


I couldn't find one place in arizona that carries them although they also now sell them under the viking nameI couldn't find one place in arizona that carries them although they also now sell them under the viking name.Although they seem a little more expensive for the exact same trailerI couldn't find one place in Arizona that carries them although they also now sell them under the Viking name. Although they seem a little more expensive for the exact same trailer.

Also, mine came with a rooftop tent that I ended up selling, I didn't want it and i'm.I'm pretty sure that the mounts were not strong enough to hold it because they literally broke on my trip home.The first time I towed it but besides that, I love the trailer.And the only thing that is broken on it is.The controller for the water heater which i've never even thought about using in the first place and I only found out on my last trip because someone wanted hot water. I would recommend getting either the 11000 12000, or 13000 though, because they're a little bigger and you can actually stand up in them as long as you're not taller than 5 foot 10 inches, I only got this one because I got it when I had my baby Bronco, that could only tow 2200 pounds.

Also if you are gonna take them on trails, I would recommend getting AI think it's just called like a trail trailer hitch, and basically it has like a U Joint, so if the trailer tips over or rolls over, it doesn't drag your Bronco along with it or vice versa. Also I think that because those u joints seem to have rubber bushings.It would dampen some of the vibrations although mine didn't do very bad with the full size bronco, but it was kind of bouncy in the baby bronco, but I think that was because of my air suspension and I just hadn't figured out how to dial it in right.




Hello everyone,

So I recently transitioned from a bronco sport heritage limited, which is the vehicle in the picture to a twenty two badlands, four door manual transmission.And it did not come with the stock tow package, which wouldn't work anyways, because I need a seven pin harness because my travel trailer has brakes.

So on my baby bronco I wired everything myself, but I started with the stock ford, four pin, which made it a lot easier.I've already ordered the hitch lock stabilizer and universal wiring kits, and I have my old tekonsha prodigy.Iq brake controller.

I tried searching like trailer and towing and didn't find any posts about it, but I easily could have missed them.I'm used to the bronco sport forum, which actually looks a lot different than this. Has anyone installed a seven pin brake controller on their full size Bronco, and if so, can you either appoint me to the post or give me any tips that I might need to know? I've already installed one on a baby bronco, but I was again starting with a 4 Pin, so I only had to wire the power.The groundThe reverse lights and the wires to the brake controller, which also needed its own power.And ground. I believe that since I don't have a 4 pin that just means I also have to wire the turn signals and brake lights but I didn't know if there was any tips about, like, where to route stuff where to mount stuff? Is there anything I should watch out for electrical wise. Is there certain fuse I should tap for the power just any tips.

Also, if anyone has towed with a badlands, prefer however non sas, is the squat with the stock suspension bad? With my baby bronco I had air suspension so I could make it level and im just wondering if I should go ahead and buy these little airbags, you stuff between coil springs and air them up, and it acts like air suspension.So you can level out your vehicle. My trailer is only nineteen hundred and fifty pounds.Because that's about all the baby bronco would tow but just thought I would ask if anyone has if they have any tips or anything.

Thanks.
22 badlands; 4door, manual transmission, soft top, non-sas, luxury pkg and a big dog.

Rank 0

Nov 05, 2025

#1
I got the actual towing hitch put on tonight.Only took about twenty minutes wasn't too bad.Although I will say the clips for what I think are the parking sensors that you have to undo when you take the bumper off the.Rear holy crapThose are so hard to clip back in.It is ridiculous.

Tomorrow I'm gonna be wiring up. The actual brake controller, which is just power and ground with a 30 amp fuse in the power wire. And then I have to run the blue brake controller wire back to the 7 pin or where it'll be. And then I also have to run a red wire to the brake lights. So it knows when to turn on
I'll try to post some pictures after. But I took a picture of the hitch.It's just a cheaper one off amazon.It was like fifty four ninety nine.Which, of course, it's now one day later, twenty percent off and it's like forty bucks.

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22 badlands; 4door, manual transmission, soft top, non-sas, luxury pkg and a big dog.
Deano Bronc

Rank 0

Nov 09, 2025

#2
Morning.This is gonna be long, but I'll try to make it short as I can

I got everything done and it's working with my trailer.I'm actually out camping now.I'll try to include some pictures, but i'm really bad at doing instructionals.And unfortunately, I didn't take all the pictures, I probably should have.

The tools and supplies you're gonna need are:

The female universal seven pin connector that the trailer will plug into
A fuse, you can see the one that I used in the pictures.And you're just gonna have to look at what your brake controller needs, but it's going to go between the battery and the brake controller for the power wire.I believe mine was twenty amps, though, but that doesn't mean it's right for yours.
Lots of wire with different colors.You're gonna want black, white blue.Red, yellow green, and if you can find it brown and for the black, you're gonna want probably at least twenty feet to be safe for the others.Probably ten feet will be more than enough
And then, depending on what your brake controller you get, you're gonna possibly need a harness if you're using an old one like, I am. I'm using.Tekonsha prodigy IQ and I had to buy a four pin pigtail for it.Because the old one that it came with was up my old baby bronco.I sold.
And then you're gonna need a couple of o ring connectors that will screw to the battery.And wherever you put the grounds you want 24 the power and ground for the brake controller.And at least 14 your ground for the seven pin at the back of the vehicle.
.And then you're gonna need some good wire splices, and I highly recommend you get the thinnest ones you can. You'll see the ones that I used in my pictures. I bought some from Lowe's but they were so wide and the wires to the taillights only have a couple inches so I would use the ones that are yellow in my pictures, and you're probably gonna have to order them because Radio Shack doesn't exist anymore. And I miss it so much.
For tools:
A good crimping tool
A socket set with a thirteen millimeter and most likely an eighteen millimeter.If you're installing a hitch as well.
A straight pick If you're installing hits to help get the rear parking sensor plugs undone.Also, they are a pain in the butt to get clipped back in
A soldering tool You can get it from Lowe's for like 20 bucks. Or you can use butt connectors, but I don't like them, and I think they always come loose
A voltmeter to verify the wires in the taillights, and all you have to do is set it on.D c twenty that's the only function you'll need for this.
I could be forgetting something, but that's the main tools you need.

So first find a spot to mount your brake controller.And then you're gonna run the wires for the power and ground for it through the rubber grommet, that is above the clutch.Pedal, if you don't have a clutch pedal, you bought the wrong bronco

What I did was, I took a razor blade and cut a plus symbol that was about half an inch long for each slice, and then I took a small screwdriver and pushed it through that. And then it broke through the second layer of the grommet on the inside of the cabin. And then you're gonna tape the power and ground to it to pull it back through. It's a good Grom, and it's very tight, so you might have to try it a few times before it gets all the way through. But once you have the power and ground wire fed through.
And then you're going to run a power wire from one of the many screws on the positive side of the battery to it.But you need to put your fuse in between or whatever your brake control is instructions say to do.I mounted mine 21 of the unused holes under the windshield wipers with a bolt and nut, and a little bit of blue loctite.
For the ground, I didn't actually use the negative terminal.I used the ground wire.That's on the quarter panel kind of above the battery.You'll see in the pictures and I just mashed it in between.I was trying to use the ground post, but it kept arcing, and that scares me.So I just used one of the grounds that ford had already had set up.

Next, for the brake controller, you're going to need to run the blue wire, which is the brake signal.However, you want, but I did it under the plastic trim pieces right? When you open the door and that's also where I ran the red wire. Which is your brake signal. And I was using 14 gauge wire for all of the wire, except I believe the power wire was twelve gauge.
And once you've run those, you're basically going to connect the blue wire to the brake signal on your seven pin.And you're gonna connect the red wire to your brake light.I did it on the left taillight because you have more room.Because the hinges get in the way a little bit on the right side. And that's really all you have to do for the brake controller.I'm going to make another post for the universal seven pin.So I can kind of separate the pictures and stuff.

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22 badlands; 4door, manual transmission, soft top, non-sas, luxury pkg and a big dog.

Rank 0

Nov 09, 2025

#3
For the pictures in the above post, the first one is the power wire for my brake controller.

The second picture is my fuse block for the power wire for the brake controller

The third one's actually the power wire for the seven pin harness where I ran it from the aux power fuse number sixty three in the engine compartment.All the way back and I did that one under the vehicle following.What I believeWere the brake lines?Because it was a pain tucking the wires for the brake controller under that plastic trim and I didn't want to deal with that again


The fourth picture is the fuse that I used for the power for the trailer.Seven pin, going by e trailer.Basically, you just won like a seven and a half or a ten amp fuse for the power wire for the trailer.And you want it on an ignition, switched power, which means it's only getting power.When the ignition is on whether it's accessory or the engine's running.
Also I would recommend putting a roadmaster 690 diode on this power wire.If you have solar panels on your trailer to prevent back feeding on my baby bronco, it would actually provide enough voltage that when I turned off my carIt would stay running unless I unplugged the trailer harness until I put that diode in between.

The fifth picture is the left taillight.Harness that you're gonna be tapping into for your signals.I did my brake signal from here, which is one of the red wires, and then I did the left turn signal.And the headlights from here as well.

And then the last picture is just again the taillight wires.You can kind of see how I just routed it underneath.I really don't care if it shows in a few spots.
22 badlands; 4door, manual transmission, soft top, non-sas, luxury pkg and a big dog.

Rank 0

Nov 09, 2025

#4
I'll get the stuff about the seven pin on later, but a quick note.Make sure and measure really good or be prepared to return and buy different sizes on the actual receiver.Hitch.I had to go to a five and a quarter inch drop to get mine to clear the spare.And that was too much basically the front of my trailer is leaning down too much.And it doesn't have a lot of clearance because where they put the stupid spare tire for the trailer.I think i'm going to be able to go up to a three and a quarter once.I trim the lock latch for the ball.Hitch on the tongue of the trailer.If that makes sense, I'll put a picture that hopefully explains what i'm talking about.So between my two fingers is the part you need to make sure you have enough room for with your spare tire and it's gonna depend on your trim.And if you get like the sasquatch package and stuff

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22 badlands; 4door, manual transmission, soft top, non-sas, luxury pkg and a big dog.

Rank 0

Nov 11, 2025

#5
I also wanted to make a note about the parking sensors.If you have them when you put the rear bumper back on after you install itch, they I couldn't get them in until I used a paintbrush to try to get any dust or debris out.I'm not sure if there was any because my car was pretty dirty.When I did it.

But I followed another post and put I didn't have grease.I just used soap around the edges and it actually clicked in pretty easily with that.So if you have grease, put a little grease on them.If you don't, you can use, I just use hand soap.
22 badlands; 4door, manual transmission, soft top, non-sas, luxury pkg and a big dog.

Rank 0

Nov 11, 2025

#6
So to do the actual universal seven pin, one thing you're gonna have to do is connect the blue wire from your brake controller to the brake input wire And that's just gonna depend on how you route it.

Again, I prefer to solder everything.This is a off road vehicle that if you actually take it off road, we'll be bouncing around a lot. And no one taught me to solder, but there's some very good videos on youtube. Just do a little practice.The biggest thing is, don't overdo it.And make a bunch of big solder droplets on the wires because it'll be hard to get your heat shrink over it.And it's just not good.You don't need that much. Also, the technique that I found the most useful is to cut about an inch of plastic. So you have about an inch of wire exposed and then you're gonna make two threads of wire instead of twisting it all together.

And you're gonna do that and you're gonna do that with both and then you're just gonna turn them so they form two v's and then you're gonna push them halfway together.And twist them together and you'll have to just practice at it but basicallybut basically the twisted wiresbut basically the twisted wires shouldbut basically the twisted wires should go all the waybut basically the twisted wires should go all the way to the plasticbut basically the twisted wires should go all the way to the plastic sheathbut basically the twisted wires should go all the way to the plastic sheath on both endsbut basically the twisted wires should go all the way to the plastic sheath on both ends.Sobut basically the twisted wires should go all the way to the plastic sheath on both ends. So it's got the most contact areabut basically the twisted wires should go all the way to the plastic sheath on both ends. So it's got the most contact area, and then you're gonna solder on top of that.

Just remember to put your heat shrink on the wire first and pleaseand please godand please, god use heat shrink.Do not use electrical tape.It will come off.It will not seal as welland please, god use heat shrink.Do not use electrical tape.It will come off.It will not seal as well.It isand please, god use heat shrink.Do not use electrical tape.It will come off.It will not seal as well.It is stickyand please, god use heat shrink.Do not use electrical tape.It will come off.It will not seal as well.It is sticky and gross and disgusting

now what I do is I put a little bit of solder on the tip, and then use that to solder, I don't actually melt the solder directly onto the wire, and that helps me with not putting too much on, but it just takes practice.There's no way you're going to learn off of what I write here, but it's not that hard. And there's many techniques and I don't know that anyone is wrong.

So from here, it's really just figuring out where you're gonna run the wires down to your seven pin connection.

I tried to take good pictures, but they didn't turn out very well.I'm gonna try and do a video later to show the exact wires I used.But the problem is I have the led rear tail lamps.If you don't have them, I guess it's different.And I don't know if other trims have wires differently.So what I would highly recommend is buy.A twenty dollar voltmeter, get a second person in the front seat and just use the voltmeter to figure out which wires are the headlights.The turn signals the reverse lights and the headlights.As well as the brake light that you ran to your brake controller.

Again?There's not a lot of room once you get the plastic trim off, there's only about I would say.Six inches of wiring, and most of it's covered with that wire loom tape, which you are gonna have to trim back at least a couple inches.So that you can fit enough wire taps in there.

Also again, I recommend using the wiretaps that are smaller. I don't know a better way to describe it. But if you look at my pictures, you can see the 2 types and the ones that are yellow in my pictures, those are the smaller ones. And what I mean by smaller is its covers less wire, cause like the ones they sell at lowe's if you have that where you live, they're almost an inch long.And they cover that much wire, but the smaller ones only cover about half an inch.So you don't need as much wire exposed.I hope that makes sense.

And basically from here, you're just gonna use the template that came with your seven pin female harness and match up the wires, reverse light to reverse light turn signal to turn signal headlight to headlight, and then the fifth wire actually like I said, is the brake light which goes to your brake controller, which you needIf your trailer has brakes doesn't matter how much it weighs.If it has brakes, you need a brake controller. Otherwise, you can just do a 4 pin.
And I know there's certain weight limits where you need brakes. I think it's 3500, but I don't know if that's different per state. So you need to check yourself.
And I know there's certain weight limits where you need brakes.I think it's thirty five hundred, but I don't know if that's different per state. So just take a little time and check.

now what I did?You can pretty much see in the pictures.I didn't try to hide them because I personally don't give a shit.Is I took all my wires after?They were connected to the light harness on the taillights.I looped it up over one of the plastic mounts that holds the light there.So that if for some reason, weight pulls on the wire, it's not pulling on the splice.First going over the top of that mount is going to take a little bit of the wait and hopefully not rip it out of the splice, even though there should never be weight pulled on the wire, make sure and leave a little excess.

also I did three of the wires on the left side.Because you have more room, because the right side is where the tailgate hinges.

and then you just run it down behind the bumper, and if you want to hide them more than that, you're gonna have to figure out that for yourself. And what I did is I ended up with about a foot to half a foot of extra wire on each wire. And so I took some zip ties, and first I zip tied the wires in a bunch, and then I tucked them up on top of one of the bumper mounts to the driver's side of the hitch. And there's some holes in those mounts that you can use more zip ties to zip Ty the extra wire length up out of the way or that's what I did. If you want to take the time to get the wires the exact size. Good for you. I'm hoping I'll have the time to go back and do that. But probably not.

no, I haven't actually made amount for the female part of my 7 pin. I just zip tied it because I had a trip right away. That I had to go on, but my hitch came with an extra plate that uses 2 of the hitch mounts to mount this extra plate. But the problem was the mounting plate that came with my 7 pin was a 90° mount. And so it would have meant that my seven pin was either facing upwards or downwards, instead of straight backwards on my baby bronco I literally just took a sheet of aluminum that was like four inches by six inches, just put it in a vise, take a crescent wrench.Slide it over, however long you want the piece of the metal before the bend to be.And it'll bend easily using a wrench.And the leverage and you can make it look good.It's not hard and basically that last of the six inches I bend at a ninety degree angle.And bolted that to some holes in my hitch, you might have to drill some holes or more than likely. You can just Google 7 pin connector mount or something or you'll figure out a way. But you want to mount up that 7 pin connector somehow permanently, and once I do min, I'll try to post it on here and show you what I did.
But I don't have any special tools just a handrail, why do you have a drill press? But I didn't even have to use it last time. A little $20 vise, and then your regular tool chest kit for working on stuff.
22 badlands; 4door, manual transmission, soft top, non-sas, luxury pkg and a big dog.

Rank 0

Nov 11, 2025

#7
So the first picture is just the seventeen female universal kit that I bought.It's just a pigtail with the female part of the seven pin that your trailer plugs into.

The second picture is just how I zip.Tied it on after I was done for my trip.

The third picture is just the wiring on the right taillight. I was running out of different colors' wire, but that blue wire is the right turn light. I believe. And then I also ran the reverse light off of the right side and online, at least depending on how you turn the pin.The turn signal was the bottom middle and the reverse light was the bottom corner, but again I don't know if it's gonna be the same on yours, so buy a twenty dollar multimeter, turn it to dc twenty, which means it's detecting up to twenty volts on d c power which our car is run on 12 V? BC unless you have the 110 V plug in the back seat, which is just done using a 110 converter box. You can buy them on amazon for cheap, but set up loving in your cigarette lighter.This one's wired by the ford, so you would hope that it's better

The fourth picture is just the wiring from the left taillight, which I did the left turn signal. The brake signal up to the brake controller and the headlights. Again the turn signal was in the bottom middle, and then I believe the brake lights was the top right? And the headlights was the top middle, but it depends on how you turn the pin on that orientation. So you need to double-check this yourself with a multimeter. It's not hard. I just put the ground probe in one of the bolt holes that holds the trim and then you're gonna touch the. Red wire to the different pins on your taillight. Harness or at least that's how I do it.I'm sure there's plenty of other ways.


The next three pictures are the wires that I used on mine to do the left side, which was the headlamps.The left turn signal and the brake signal.Fortunately, I cannot find where I wrote down.Which wire was which so again?You're just gonna have to check your site.Which I recommend doing anyways.

The eighth picture is just showing the wires spliced into the left taillight.

The ninth picture is the spices I bought from lowe's of which I only used one.Because like I said, they're a lot wider, and they cover a lot of wire and you don't have a lot of wire on these tail.Lamp wire harnesses, so if you see the yellow splices, those are what I recommend using, and I feel like they lock better.

Tenth?And eleventh is just where I ran the power wire from fuse sixty three, back to the seven pin harness.Basically I just followed those lines.I think they're brake lines, but they could be fuel lines.I don't remember and I just used zip ties to hook them to the wires every couple feet

The last one I'm pointing to the fuse. They end up using which I have the auxwitches, and I believe it's fuse 63, which is for switch 4 now. The weird thing is I didn't even have to hit the auxwitch for my trailer harness to work. However, I have solar on my trailer. So it could be providing its own power. And that's why it doesn't matter. I don't know.
Also I would recommend putting a diode between the the brake signal and another one on the power wire, cause i'm told it can back feed.

The one that I use is just the one that each railer recommended, which was the roadmaster 690. It's a single wire diode and from what I understand it just prevents electricity from going both ways. It only allows it to flow a certain direction.

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22 badlands; 4door, manual transmission, soft top, non-sas, luxury pkg and a big dog.
Moderator

Life is a Highway

Nov 11, 2025

#8
Yeah, in regards to the hitch, you will either need to add an extension or replace with a one piece extended hitch

Rank 0

Nov 14, 2025

#9
Yeah, in regards to the hitch, you will either need to add an extension or replace with a one piece extended hitch

Assuming home depot, let me return the 5 and a quarter drop. I'm gonna get a 3 and a quarter and try that out this weekend. And if it's still not level yeah, I'll have to get an extension or something.

I was thinking about those ones that have multiple holes because that would almost work.Like an extension and stick out a couple more inches, but I'd rather not have to do any extension or anything.If I don't have to even though it's a pretty light trailer, but I'll put on here how it works out
22 badlands; 4door, manual transmission, soft top, non-sas, luxury pkg and a big dog.
Moderator

Life is a Highway

Nov 14, 2025

#10
I was to cheap to get the longer one so I got an extension.
Moderator

Life is a Highway

Nov 14, 2025

#11
First photo is with stock Sasquatch suspension, second is with new suspension.
DragoBiscuit
Moderator

Life is a Highway

Nov 14, 2025

#12
I have an 8” extension and a 2” drop and it works perfectly. At the time I couldn’t find a one piece with the built in length I needed and I was under a time crunch to get one. So I made it work.
SAVEUP

Rank 0

Nov 16, 2025

#13
So I went to my aunt's house where I store the trailer with my buddy.And I replaced the five and a quarter inch drop with a three and a quarter inch drop and after chopping about a little less than an inch off of the hitch.Latch, it worked.So I don't have to do anything else.

Also I didn't bring a long enough extension.And no one was home at my aunt's house.So I was actually able to use the 110 power in the back seat to run my angle grinder.It was cool that it worked.I'll try to upload pictures right now.It doesn't want to upload them
22 badlands; 4door, manual transmission, soft top, non-sas, luxury pkg and a big dog.

Rank 0

Nov 16, 2025

#14
1711.jpg1709.jpg
22 badlands; 4door, manual transmission, soft top, non-sas, luxury pkg and a big dog.

Rank 0

Nov 16, 2025

#15
I also wanted to share my MPGs while towing last weekend.

I was able to average 15.5 going up to flagstaff, where it's mostly uphill, and then going back by the time I dropped my trailer off I was at 17.6 which is pretty darn good.It's almost what I got in my baby bronco.I would usually be at about 19 on the way back once I dropped off my trailer in the baby bronco.

Now I do drive pretty conservatively, and I usually don't try to go faster than 65 most of the time.

Also in my regular everyday driving, I drive pretty slow and barely hit the gas Because for me it goes fast enough, and I average 20.5 MPG but I will say that probably sixty percent of my driving is highway and I don't get stuck in stop and go traffic too often. And all of this is just based on the dash gauge, not me checking how much I actually used up in the tank versus my miles.
22 badlands; 4door, manual transmission, soft top, non-sas, luxury pkg and a big dog.
TK1215

Rank 0

Today at 7:39 pm

#16
I did another trip to the same spot just not as far back on the trail and when I dropped off the trailer I was at 15.5 mpg this time but I also drove faster doing 75 almost the whole way cuz I was tired and just wanted to get home. I average 20.5 to 21 without trailer for regular driving but I accelerate slow I barely touch the gas and honestly its not much slower than regular traffic. So I'm pretty happy with my mpg overall.
22 badlands; 4door, manual transmission, soft top, non-sas, luxury pkg and a big dog.

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