Snow and 4WD

but I’ve now seen 2 broncos have massive damage done most likely due to shock loads from 4A engaging
Please explain....????

I drive 4A for 5-6 months a year for the last two years with ZERO issues or complaints.
Please elaborate on this shock load damage......

Unicorn

but I’ve now seen 2 broncos have massive damage done most likely due to shock loads from 4A engaging
Please explain....????

One post on bronco 6G and one on a FB page some folks have said as the wheels began to slip and when 4A engaged they heard loud metal on metal sound and were finding parts literally blown out of the front end. Needed to be towed. Anyways what is your take on 4A vs slippery/4H

4A comes on in Sport mode as well as the rain/slippery GOAT mode, so it would not be a problem on dry or snow covered roads. If someone says 4A caused major damage, something else was wrong.

Agree with RobW. Just got14 inches of snow here and some roads are ice\hard packed snow thanks to sub zero temps. Slippery worked great on our WT.

SlipperySlope

One post on bronco 6G and one on a FB page some folks have said as the wheels began to slip and when 4A engaged they heard loud metal on metal sound and were finding parts literally blown out of the front end. Needed to be towed. Anyways what is your take on 4A vs slippery/4H

Lets start right there. Are you familiar with the boards/posts/whatever on the internet..... People say a lot of things that they have no idea about. There are a lot of people (and I mean a lot) on G6 that do not have a clue and they experience trouble and blame the only term they know. Same with FB. (there are some people on there that know an immense amount though) you just need to learn who they are.

First off 4A is different from 4H or 4L. 4H or 4L engages the gears within the transfer case delivering 50% of the power to the rear and 50% of the power to the front..... It is just like a locker for the differential. 2H delivers 100% of the power to the rear. 4A uses a series of clutches to modulate how much power is transferred to the front. A computer analyses slippage and tightens or releases the clutches based on tire slippage. Even if the computer broke down while the clutches were engaged (vehicle would light up like a Christmas tree but lets imagine it didn't) it still would allow for some slippage at the clutches. Engaging 4A would not create a "shock load". 4A is an absolutely awesome invention. It is what all those "all wheel drive" cars are using. It is really a game changer on the road.

You do not want to run 4H or 4L on dry pavement or anywhere the tires can not get a tiny bit of slippage. it slowly builds bind in the driveline. It is not dramatic. It just slowly builds and wears parts out. Lockers... I am sure you have heard this, never use them when the wheels can not slip. that difference builds very very quickly and it's effects are dramatic. Turning with a locker on when on dry pavement axle will bind quickly and the inside tire will hop and chirp and make a lot of noise while bouncing the vehicle up and down. Same thing happens in the transfer case in 4H or 4L just much more subtlety because the load happens much much slower.

USE 4A.... It is awesome. If your roads are covered with snow pack/ice, go ahead and use 4H.... 4H does work better in those situations. It is just that you are always safe with 4A.

Unicorn

Lets start right there. Are you familiar with the boards/posts/whatever on the internet..... People say a lot of things that they have no idea about. There are a lot of people (and I mean a lot) on G6 that do not have a clue and they experience trouble and blame the only term they know. Same with FB. (there are some people on there that know an immense amount though) you just need to learn who they are.

First off 4A is different from 4H or 4L. 4H or 4L engages the gears within the transfer case delivering 50% of the power to the rear and 50% of the power to the front..... It is just like a locker for the differential. 2H delivers 100% of the power to the rear. 4A uses a series of clutches to modulate how much power is transferred to the front. A computer analyses slippage and tightens or releases the clutches based on tire slippage. Even if the computer broke down while the clutches were engaged (vehicle would light up like a Christmas tree but lets imagine it didn't) it still would allow for some slippage at the clutches. Engaging 4A would not create a "shock load". 4A is an absolutely awesome invention. It is what all those "all wheel drive" cars are using. It is really a game changer on the road.

You do not want to run 4H or 4L on dry pavement or anywhere the tires can not get a tiny bit of slippage. it slowly builds bind in the driveline. It is not dramatic. It just slowly builds and wears parts out. Lockers... I am sure you have heard this, never use them when the wheels can not slip. that difference builds very very quickly and it's effects are dramatic. Turning with a locker on when on dry pavement axle will bind quickly and the inside tire will hop and chirp and make a lot of noise while bouncing the vehicle up and down. Same thing happens in the transfer case in 4H or 4L just much more subtlety because the load happens much much slower.

USE 4A.... It is awesome. If your roads are covered with snow pack/ice, go ahead and use 4H.... 4H does work better in those situations. It is just that you are always safe with 4A.

Thanks for the great reply! I really appreciate you!

SlipperySlope

Thanks for the great reply! I really appreciate you!

I just happened to be one of the first to reply.... There are other people on here that know more than I do....

But that is why I come here as well... I will run into an issue that you can answer for me.

Couple years ago, Laura posted a good winter driving article by a Ford Bronco engineer. The short answer for driving in snow & ice is use Slippery/4A until conditions are over 4 or 5". In deeper snow of 6" and more, you'll need much greater momentum, so more power & wheel spin - Turn off traction control, use Mud/Sand & 4H. They refer to this setup as 'Donut Mode' - Enjoy!!

Cheers

I've found that just plain 4 Auto works really great in snow and ice. The nannies are all intact and it will engage traction control when needed. Go out and find a parking lot and try to do a donut. It will catch you as you slide.

Now Sport mode on the other hand. . . Be prepared for sidewaysness. :)

I owned a Chevy Silverado 4x4 for 13 years. I ran 4A for days at a time most winters, including at highway speeds. Never an issue. I’ve ran 4A a few times in my Basesquatch. Also, no problems.
I don’t know for certain how the 4A in the Bronco works. I’ve seen it said that it works more like AWD, distributing power to whichever wheel needs it.
In my Silverado, 4A simply activated the standard 4x4 system as needed. That’s my understanding of a 4A system.

RNC

I owned a Chevy Silverado 4x4 for 13 years. I ran 4A for days at a time most winters, including at highway speeds. Never an issue. I’ve ran 4A a few times in my Basesquatch. Also, no problems.
I don’t know for certain how the 4A in the Bronco works. I’ve seen it said that it works more like AWD, distributing power to whichever wheel needs it.
In my Silverado, 4A simply activated the standard 4x4 system as needed. That’s my understanding of a 4A system.

When you turn on 4A, switch the display to Power Distribution. You can see how much is going to each wheel. It is especially neat to watch on dirt/mud when you loose traction and can see how it responds. I messed around with 4A on my F-150 off road just to see it work each wheel in different scenarios.

SlipperySlope

Morning all. Well aware it’s not a good idea to use 4H/L on DRY pavement. What about on snow covered roads? Slippery mode seems to be a logical choice. 4A has been working fine but I’ve now seen 2 broncos have massive damage done most likely due to shock loads from 4A engaging. What do you experts say? Trying not to damage my transmission or differential.

Shock loads? All you do is press the button to go into 4A. I never even noticed, it was seamless. 4A is AWD and 4H is true 4WD.

Sven

I drive 4A for 5-6 months a year for the last two years with ZERO issues or complaints.
Please elaborate on this shock load damage......

I've used slippery and 4wd in deep snow with no problems.

RobWTx

When you turn on 4A, switch the display to Power Distribution. You can see how much is going to each wheel. It is especially neat to watch on dirt/mud when you loose traction and can see how it responds. I messed around with 4A on my F-150 off road just to see it work each wheel in different scenarios.

I ran 4A this morning in Northeast Ohio. Display only showed the percentage of power distributed to the front Diff. It never indicated percentage to individual wheels. I intentionally broke traction just to see. It never went above 11%.
I have a 22 Basesquatch 2Dr, 2.7, Auto with advanced 4 wheel drive.

RNC

I ran 4A this morning in Northeast Ohio. Display only showed the percentage of power distributed to the front Diff. It never indicated percentage to individual wheels. I intentionally broke traction just to see. It never went above 11%.
I have a 22 Basesquatch 2Dr, 2.7, Auto with advanced 4 wheel drive.

Dang, I'll have to test this out on the Bronco. The F-150 had a % by each wheel

Update: This was the view last Friday. Slippery mode was perfect and needed. Like TSO I started in normal and when it slipped I shifted on the fly. Never needed 4H or 4L though.

SlipperySlope

One post on bronco 6G and one on a FB page some folks have said as the wheels began to slip and when 4A engaged they heard loud metal on metal sound and were finding parts literally blown out of the front end. Needed to be towed. Anyways what is your take on 4A vs slippery/4H

6G, ‘nuff said. They’ll make mountains outta mole hills there

As for 4a, only smell stuff with it engaged awhile, otherwise no issues that Im aware of

It very possible for the 4A and a mechanical failure to cause some interesting side effects. But for the vast majority it works as intended.