Okay so got my diff covr from Jegs! But... Which fluid, help!

So, if I have the Sasquatch with the 470s... is it the full synthetic? I am confused (75W-85?)

So, I have an electronic locking diff with the Squatch so I am guessing it is 63.6 fluid ounces of 80w90 as noted below, correct?

Use the Full Synthetic gear oil. It is just better than conventional or blend.

Porkchop4464

Rear axle fluid capacity:

• W/ electronic locking differential: 63.6 fluid ounces
• W/o electronic locking differential: 65.3 fluid ounces

	MOTORCRAFT PART NUMBER
Motorcraft® SAE 80W-90 Premium Rear Axle Lubricant (U.S.)	WSP-M2C197-A
Motorcraft® SAE 75W-85 Premium Synthetic Hypoid Gear Lubricant (U.S.)	WSS-M2C942-A

Lester10-3

Use the Full Synthetic gear oil. It is just better than conventional or blend.

So, Lester, am I just reading this wrong? Is it one or the other? I have to be honest since it is Ford supplied and only has 900 miles, I was thinking of just using the oil in it when I crack the pumpkin and I prob would except my rubber wonder gasket has not arrived from Amazon today as it was supposed to!

2 quarts of Motorcraft Premium Synthetic 75-85 gear oil is not that expensive. Don't try to reuse the original factory fill just because you can easily contaminate it, or it could have some bits of metal from break-in. Just not worth it.

I am a big believer in synthetic and the manual includes this

I sure would like to read some good explanation of why the manual specifies 80-90 for the front but 75-85 for the rear. Only real difference is the much smaller volume in the front. Also front is not under load most of the time. I also believe in full synthetic front & rear. Also in the engine & transfer case.

Does that cover clear the track bar?

Oldhippie

Does that cover clear the track bar?

Old Hippie,

So... I did crawl under there and it does bump the bar by 3/4" or a little more. With this, since I planned on pinstriping the finns anyway (Carbon Gray), to be safe, I will remove a 1/2 to 3/4 will belt sander from the top plate surface. Doing so will hopefully get me to the desired 1/2 - 3/4 inch distance from the bar I am looking for. I know I am shaving off the very fins I need to complete my cooling project goals, but the entire case is a really think chunk of cast alum, finned pretty much throughout. Although not as I first hoped, it will still pull a hell of a lot of heat off that pumpkin as the air @ 70 hits those alum fins on the highway. God Bless the German engineering in early bugs. Who needs a radiator!

Bschurr

I am a big believer in synthetic and the manual includes this

View attachment 25581
View attachment 25582

I ordered two quarts of Royal Purple. I don't know, however, it is freaking me out a little, so I may crack the pumpkin and reuse the oil. It's got 900 miles and is such a waste to toss it. I can keep the royal for the 10 grand check (out of curiosity). Now I am trying to think of an interesting way to paint strainer the cracked pumpkin to see if I catch any shavings! I think I can over do it in things... so my wife says... I too often make many of my own problems.

By the way. Although it may take me a bit to get all of this done, (15 degrees outside for the last week). As so many note online vids... DO NOT FOLLOW MY IDIOCY! You can make all the funny comments and snarks you like as that is what humans do (we can't help ourselves, really), but don't buy this cover or anything else until I make sure it all works. So you know, at this time, with oil, I have 110 bucks all in. But if she works out. Damn! That is a bitchen cover (from an old hotrodder's and heat sync perspective). But... For some reason, if it all doesn't work out... well...

Porkchop4464

I ordered two quarts of Royal Purple. I don't know, however, it is freaking me out a little, so I may crack the pumpkin and reuse the oil. It's got 900 miles and is such a waste to toss it. I can keep the royal for the 10 grand check (out of curiosity). Now I am trying to think of an interesting way to paint strainer the cracked pumpkin to see if I catch any shavings! I think I can over do it in things... so my wife says... I too often make many of my own problems.

Please don’t reuse the diff oil - it’s not worth the risk! While I am sure you would be cautious and have great intentions any little contamination could lead to issues later on and the few bucks you save might bite you in the a$$ down the road.

Porkchop4464

As so many note online vids... DO NOT FOLLOW MY IDIOCY! some reason, it doesn't work out...

LOL - I love your style Pork

This is exactly why I only post my mods once they are complete. No one should know the anguish, stupidity or trial & error associated with my tinkering!!

But, the finished product usually looks pretty good and functions well! And I provide the details so anyone after me can do it a bit easier

Bschurr

Please don’t reuse the diff oil - it’s not worth the risk! While I am sure you would be cautious and have great intentions any little contamination could lead to issues later on and the few bucks you save might bite you in the a$$ down the road.


LOL - I love your style Pork

This is exactly why I only post my mods once they are complete. No one should know the anguish, stupidity or trial & error associated with my tinkering!!

But, the finished product usually looks pretty good and functions well! And I provide the details so anyone after me can do it a bit easier

As usual, very true on both points, Bscurr!

Lester10-3

I sure would like to read some good explanation of why the manual specifies 80-90 for the front but 75-85 for the rear. Only real difference is the much smaller volume in the front. Also front is not under load most of the time. I also believe in full synthetic front & rear. Also in the engine & transfer case.

I know! It is def confusing! Why so, in a damn manual!?

Sharing here, my travels!

So when I looked online, I found a site that sells a Bronco correct diff cover and they reference, in fact, with the 300$ tag, they "throw-in" 3 quarts of 75W 90 Syn (by the way, correct me please, not being snarky, but by my assumption, 63 ounces only makes 2 quarts). Anyway. as usual, I digress!

See below. What worries me and I have to wait until I get the gasket anyway. So, Monday I will call or email the dealer. I know it has, obviously, a locking diff, but isn't it actually limited slip as well when not engaged? Yet there is no mention of an anti-chatter of binding additive (whatever it is called)?
https://afepower.com/afe-power-46-7...erential-cover-black-w-machined-fins-gear-oil.

Pork

Porkchop4464

I know! It is def confusing! Why so, in a damn manual!?

Sharing here, my travels!

So when I looked online, I found a site that sells a Bronco correct diff cover and they reference, in fact, with the 300$ tag, they "throw-in" 3 quarts of 75W 90 Syn (by the way, correct me please, not being snarky, but by my assumption, 63 ounces only makes 2 quarts). Anyway. as usual, I digress!

See below. What worries me and I have to wait until I get the gasket anyway. So, Monday I will call or email the dealer. I know it has, obviously, a locking diff, but isn't it actually limited slip as well when not engaged? Yet there is no mention of an anti-chatter of binding additive (whatever it is called)?
https://afepower.com/afe-power-46-7...erential-cover-black-w-machined-fins-gear-oil.

Pork

I will add to this how encouraging seeing the depth of that pan on an actual Bronce is! It is a deep pan! Deeper than mine! Although not a guarantee, it is surely encouraging that I will be able to make all of my nonsense swing!

Porkchop4464

I ordered two quarts of Royal Purple. I don't know, however, it is freaking me out a little, so I may crack the pumpkin and reuse the oil. It's got 900 miles and is such a waste to toss it. I can keep the royal for the 10 grand check (out of curiosity). Now I am trying to think of an interesting way to paint strainer the cracked pumpkin to see if I catch any shavings! I think I can over do it in things... so my wife says... I too often make many of my own problems.

"I too often make many of my own problems."

This was me in my 20's. 30y later, less motivation, and the tendency for arthritic hands leaves my wallet MUCH fatter and more free time lol.

I have to admit I also fall in the “make my own problems “ category.
However…
I also “solve more problems than I make”
I’m an old rodder myself.
I love tinkering and to be honest “most” do it yourself videos “they’ve done something different from how I would have done it”.
Example…
Just simple wiring videos- friction tape and or “Heat Shrink !” Over splice connections.
“Make It Waterproof”!
Back on topic,
I think that rear cover will look bad ass in my opinion.
looks like an X-01 accessory!
yes, I pay attention to detail.
And if you have to ask about X-01 ?
Don’t bother “it’s off topic”.

The fill plug might be a magnet that would catch any metal fragments. Give it a good look when you pull it. But, if you already have 2 quarts of synthetic gear oil, just us it now.

Agreed to all points! So here is a very interesting vid all should def watch if you are thinking of this. It scared me at first, but after examining my cover, it is not flat on the case (meaning it is shaped identical to the original). This is BIG food for thought, if you buy a flat back pan, it is just not good!
Funny, but as proved in this vid with all the aeration, a flat back cover will def hurt your gears!

Please view if you intend on changing your cover to a flat back case!