KC Gravity Titan Light Bar Questions

Anyoung07

Hey fam,Just got the KC Gravity Titan 50” Light Bar…I’ve watched a ton of videos and some different forum threads on how to install this and I think I am more confused than ever.

Has anyone installed here successfully the 50” KC Titan Light bar?

Can I even use my oem upfitter switch’s since this light bar uses so much power?

I could use some serious guidance from someone who has installed exact light bar.

I have the 50” KC Gravity Pro 6 bar on my Raptor. It’s the same thing just slightly different optics.

Your setup requires 316 watts which equates to 26 Amps of draw. You will be OK wiring this directly onto your Aux switch that handles 30 amps (Aux1).Or, you can use the included relay and connect it to any Aux switch and connect battery power directly to the relay.

Bschurr

I have the 50” KC Gravity Pro 6 bar on my Raptor. It’s the same thing just slightly different optics.

Your setup requires 316 watts which equates to 26 Amps of draw. You will be OK wiring this directly onto your Aux switch that handles 30 amps (Aux1).Or, you can use the included relay and connect it to any Aux switch and connect battery power directly to the relay.

The Titan 8 Light looks like it requires 35 amps so it looks like I must go with the relay.

The Titan has two light modes. White and amber.

So I wire them to two aux switches? And as long as I keep the relay I can wire them to 5 amp aux switch?

Thanks!

Anyoung07

The Titan 8 Light looks like it requires 35 amps so it looks like I must go with the relay.The Titan has two light modes. White and amber.

So I wire them to two aux switches? And as long as I keep the relay I can wire them to 5 amp aux switch?

Thanks!

I attached the specs from the KC website in my reply above but if you say it’s 35 Amps, I trust your data since you have the product in hand (and their recommendation accounts for the typical 20% headspace). I do recall the Titans having an amber backlight so I also agree that a separate Aux switch for each would work just fine. BTW - Ford originally specified a bunch of the Aux switches as 5 amp capacities and then modified their documentation to list them as 10 amps each. Regardless, since you will be energizing the relay, 5 (or 10) amps is sufficient for the trigger.

It sounds like you have this all squared away and you are ready for installation. It’s not difficult but without previous experience in 12v wiring, I understand it can be daunting. You are gonna love the Titans - they make daylight!

FYI - here’s a pic of my current set up.

Bschurr

I attached the specs from the KC website in my reply above but if you say it’s 35 Amps, I trust your data since you have the product in hand. I do recall the Titans having an amber backlight so I also agree that a separate Aux switch for each would work just fine. BTW - Ford originally specified a bunch of the Aux switches as 5 amp capacities and then modified their documentation to list them as 10 amps each. Regardless, since you will be energizing the relay, 5 (or 10) amps is sufficient for the trigger.

It sounds like you have this all squared away and you are ready for installation. It’s not difficult but without previous experience in 12v wiring, I understand it can be daunting. You are gonna love the Titans - they make daylight!

FYI - here’s a pic of my current set up.

Sweet Bronco!

Yes I think I am just about ready to start my install. Thank you for your help.

Can’t wait to try them out.

Anyoung07

Sweet Bronco!

Yes I think I am just about ready to start my install. Thank you for your help.

Can’t wait to try them out.

Thanks - I am always happy to help a fellow enthusiast!

FYI - I ran the wiring down the driver’s side edge of the windshield and secured it in a bead of clear silicone and then under the cowl to the electrical connections under the hood. YMMV

Bschurr

Thanks - I am always happy to help a fellow enthusiast!

FYI - I ran the wiring down the driver’s side edge of the windshield and secured it in a bead of clear silicone and then under the cowl to the electrical connections under the hood. YMMV

I think you are describing this method?

Anyoung07

I think you are describing this method?

The wire harness for the KC bar ends on the driver’s side and I literally ran it down the outside of the windshield to the cowl. The wire fits nicely in the channel between the A pillar & glass. I used blue painters tape on either side of the channel to protect the glass & paint. I then ran a bead of clear silicone in the channel, placed the wire into the bead, let it dry & peeled off the tape leaving a very clean install. (NB: use a zip tie to secure the wire harness to the KC mount so the wires have some slack for serviceability & are not flapping around out there)

You could of course, install via the Oracle video & run the wire under the molding on the driver’s side and out through the grommet however, I was concerned about water intrusion so I didn’t use this method.

Be sure to post pics when you are done - can’t wait to see your new lights!

Anyoung07

I think you are describing this method?

Why did you choose a bead of silicone versus the KC universal wire hider?

Anyoung07

Why did you choose a bead of silicone versus the KC universal wire hider?

The wire hider is obvious & UGLY!