Factory power inverter 12volt to 110 in back center console

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The 110 volt outlet in the center console is a feature of the Mid package and higher. The inverter itself is located under the center console, and you have to remove the entire center console to get to it. There is only one outlet regardless of the trim level... there isn't a second outlet in the back.

I have no idea if the wiring harness in the center console on the Standard packaged Broncos have the necessary cabling to add the inverter. But if it does, you theoretically should be able to just buy and install the OEM inverter into any Bronco. The hardest part of the process for most people will be to the program the BCM (Body Control Module). The BCM has to be aware that the inverter exists in order to tell it to turn on/off at the appropriate times.

RagnarKon

The 110 volt outlet in the center console is a feature of the Mid package and higher. The inverter itself is located under the center console, and you have to remove the entire center console to get to it. There is only one outlet regardless of the trim level... there isn't a second outlet in the back.

I have no idea if the wiring harness in the center console on the Standard packaged Broncos have the necessary cabling to add the inverter. But if it does, you theoretically should be able to just buy and install the OEM inverter into any Bronco. The hardest part of the process for most people will be to the program the BCM (Body Control Module). The BCM has to be aware that the inverter exists in order to tell it to turn on/off at the appropriate times.

Now that, good sir, is one of the best answers I have ever recieved in a while!

I think when I mod the amp in the back trunk area, I will fab a converter in the same area as part of deal since I will be running wires for all anyway. I am def hanging a kicker of some sort off my tail gate. The thing that kind of stinks about owning these things is the fear of cutting things since it cost so much. If it was an old Jeep or even Bronco, I would load the entire tailgate with sub and speakers and more, not on this truck, however.

I agree that going OEM would def be the best way, but I can't imagne what Ford will want for all the endless parts needed to make such come true; if I could even get them!

Pork

Inverters require a LARGE DC cable to power anything above a few hundred watts. As you are changing 12 volts to 120 they will require 10 TIMES the amps at DC for a given AC wattage. 12 volts is not a lot. The reason many automakers have been thinking about going to 24 volts or more......twice the voltage equals half the current...
EX: IOW, 240 watts AC will require 20amps DC theoretically. BUT the inverter efficiency is not 100%, there are losses in heat, resistance just for the inverter.
ALSO, the longer the DC cable (not wire, you NEED a cable really for anything like 600 plus watts) is the more resistance in that cable and therefore the more loss.
The ideal inverter location is a close as possible to the battery for the shortest cable possible (like under the hood or near the firewall inside or out) AND the largest wire/cable possible.
ALSO the resistance of the cable will cause a decrease in voltage. The smaller the wire the more the drop in voltage.
If this is for emergency use only I recommend getting an inverter with jump start style cables that you open the hood and connect.
If it is for common use then buy the smallest and best inverter that will do the job and observe the above guidelines.
You can use the aux switches but I would have the aux switch power a relay designed for much higher amperage to power up the inverter on and off.
JMO.

Agreed, shortest run possible. I suppose if it is just about having a 110 outlet if needed for an emergency or parades (ha), I could run a sep plug just under the glove box somewhere or even in the engine bay.

Sounds corny, but the truck has been in the town Christmas parade twice already ( my son gets a kick out of being in the parade) and each time we put battery powered xmas lights.

If I ran an inverter right along side the battery, mounted to the firewall, I would certainly have the shortest and safest set up. Shit! I could even have a kill switch on it so that it only goes on when I need it. I think I just figured out my answer! Thanks all for the thoughtful responses!

https://www.amazon.com/Inverter-Con...jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
https://www.amazon.com/Inverter-Cha...72484548&sprefix=power+inverter,aps,92&sr=8-3


Pork

Re

" You can use the aux switches but I would have the aux switch power a relay designed for much higher amperage to power up the inverter on and off."

All of the overhead switches are fused and relayed from the factory (biggest of such is 30 amp). The best damn 195 bucks I ever spent! I have watched several videos of folks trying to add later and it is a no go.

You'd be better off getting your own inverter and wiring it in direct to the battery rather than using the Ford OEM setup.
The way Ford has it wired the inverter (and therefore anything you have plugged into the 110V outlets) shut off automatically after a short period of time, (I think 15 min). This makes it useless for anything of value unless you are there monitoring whether it has turned off. If it has shut off, you need to reactivate accessory mode using the ignition switch.
I am in the process of evaluating where I can install a second battery so I can install a 1000W inverter. I want to be able to charge batteries for my Dewalt power tools and intend to install the inverter in the rear cargo area.

Coldsmoke

You'd be better off getting your own inverter and wiring it in direct to the battery rather than using the Ford OEM setup.
The way Ford has it wired the inverter (and therefore anything you have plugged into the 110V outlets) shut off automatically after a short period of time, (I think 15 min). This makes it useless for anything of value unless you are there monitoring whether it has turned off. If it has shut off, you need to reactivate accessory mode using the ignition switch.
I am in the process of evaluating where I can install a second battery so I can install a 1000W inverter. I want to be able to charge batteries for my Dewalt power tools and intend to install the inverter in the rear cargo area.

Def agree with ALL your points. I didn't know Ford threw a 15 min timer on the thing, plus a mandatory computer reset, but thinking of it, it makes sence in a typical corp America way. I can see Ford Covering theri asses for all types of wiring/ fuse concerns and customer complaints and servcice returns. There is def some/enough space on the left side of the engine bay to mount a decent size inverter. I will use standard battery cables and keep the cables as short as possible (two feet max for pos. and 6 inches for the ground strap). Although, as noted, I would prefer to have an outlet/plug in the cab, just under the dash, a plug right along side the battery works just as well. I also like the idea of activating it "on" from the overhead switches, as the inverter wont be on at all times (although the main cables will be). Def will need a large Fuse!

So, I looked up a pic of the engine bay (from here) and if you look, dead smack behind the engine, there is large piece of realestate available on the firewall, plenty of space for a fairly decent sized inverter, right?!

So! Take a look at this batt pic. I think you can def fab a decent sized inverter to directly bolt to the battery hold down bracket? I think it would just miss the cable ends if you slid it more toward the front of the grill and then bolted right to the batt holddown.

Porkchop4464

Re

" You can use the aux switches but I would have the aux switch power a relay designed for much higher amperage to power up the inverter on and off."

All of the overhead switches are fused and relayed from the factory (biggest of such is 30 amp). The best damn 195 bucks I ever spent! I have watched several videos of folks trying to add later and it is a no go.

I have the aux switches and am using one so far, I agree I really like them..
BUT if you are running a 1000 watt inverter you will need 80+ AMPS!!! (8x12=960)
I guess the eastern people use 110 volt but here on the leftist coast everything is 120 and the actual voltage delivered to our houses is closer to 125...but I digress....
Use the aux switch to power a relay:
The relay should use a large cable from the battery and when powered up (via the aux switch) then delivers that large amount of current via another large wire to the inverter. You still use the aux switch, but the relay is the MIDDLEMAN who receives the juice from the battery and then delivers it to the inverter. Hope that helps.
BTW you literally cannot use too large a cable for the DC to the inverter...
As for the relay, I would like a cheap OEM old style starter solenoid (which is really just a relay) would work perfect. The kind you would see right there under the hood on the passenger side of most Ford cars/trucks 60/70's....

Porkchop4464

So! Take a look at this batt pic. I think you can def fab a decent sized inverter to directly bolt to the battery hold down bracket? I think it would just miss the cable ends if you slid it more toward the front of the grill and then bolted right to the batt holddown.

I would put the inverter inside the car, it gets really hot under the hood and inverters and high temps don't really like each other...

Not sure your use case but perhaps consider a portable power station that supports pass through charging. Plug it in to the existing 12v in the rear. It's charging while the engine is running and will run your stuff while charging and when it's not with zero chance of mucking up the vehicle battery. Plus you also have something you can take with you for other uses. I do this with my fridge when I camp. I've had a 250 watt rockpals and now a 600 bluetti in this config.