Bronco Raptor engine oil temps

My feeling after Bronco Raptor off-roadeo is that the oil temps are fine in that range. Their Bronco Raptors run entirely off road and get subject to fairly extreme conditions. If you’re using full synthetic you’re probably fine. Just get more frequent oil changes and maybe get oil testing if you’re concerned.

I’ve never come across a modern vehicle that had engine overheating problems that didn’t have a design defect. The recent Tundra failures were from machining debris and the Bronco 2.7 had faulty valves and a design flaw with the oil pan.

Everything I am seeing states that normal operating oil temperature range is 190-220 degrees.

The oil they recommend is designed with certain characteristics at those operating temperatures. If you lower the temperature you viscosity will go up and you will be running less efficiently.

Yeah, our WildTrak's oil temp seems to run high when climbing these Colorado mtns. I mean, just driving flat highways 70 - 75mph, in 60deg temps oil temp's 190 - 210. We live at 7,500ft west of Denver and climbing that 2,000ft raises oil & tranny temps with oil running above 210 to 230. Climbing into our high mtns drives oil to 240.

A friend's done several mods to lower his 2-door manual's engine temps - Meafy intercooler with alloy charge pipe, replaced ploy coolant reservoir with alloy tank, cooler running spark plugs & only running high test gas - Pretty much everything available. He says his oil's running about 10 - 12 deg cooler.

Obviously, Bronco's nano-twin-fan is a HOTTIE!! We run 91+ gas and keep an eye on temps particularly when climbing above 10,000ft and will take an occasional sightseeing break. An important point is never shutdown the engine when it's running at these high temps. ALWAYS give her several minutes at idle to avoid a 'heat soak' event.

Cheers

I don’t know if it’s a fair comparison but I watched oil temp on my 2.7 Sasquatch on a 30 mile loop highway up to 75, city, boulevard. Never got warmer than 190 but it was a cooler day in the mid 60’s.
I’ve noticed a bunch of Broncos with added lights, winches, bumpers and ill placed license plates that are blocking radiators and intercoolers. Not a good idea.

Jakob1972

The oil they recommend is designed with certain characteristics at those operating temperatures. If you lower the temperature you viscosity will go up and you will be running less efficiently.

I like watching that guys videos. Havent watched this one yet but heat kills oils especially the non synthetic. Yeah you dont want the oil to be 100 degrees for sure but above 197 oils start to degrade and carbon from degraded oil starts sticking to intake valves and while it is direct injection ONLY thats a bad thing without port injection as well to help clean and cool intake valves. The other broncos I believe are port (fuel above intake valves) and direct. To mitigate this to keep oil out of the intake I've already installed ford catch cans (mechanical fix) and found while running around town (low temps) they never fill but after highway (higher oil temps) the passenger side had about 3 oz of really dark oil with only 2500 mi on the oil. That tells me 100% the oil is too hot. I can literally drive truck around town for much longer periods day after day and it never gets hot enough even when launching into traffic at times. People are on the fence about catch cans but undoubtably they mechanically catch oil and other vapors before reaching the intake. I may cad something up for the engine oil cooler, print it then see about getting them made up at a local CNC since nothing exists. A plate with for the head to divert oil through hoses to a traditional fanned cooler, and then a simple coupling for the water hoses since they will no longer be needed.

extra toasty

I don’t know if it’s a fair comparison but I watched oil temp on my 2.7 Sasquatch on a 30 mile loop highway up to 75, city, boulevard. Never got warmer than 190 but it was a cooler day in the mid 60’s.
I’ve noticed a bunch of Broncos with added lights, winches, bumpers and ill placed license plates that are blocking radiators and intercoolers. Not a good idea.

Yeah Im pretty sure the other broncos (according to google) have direct and port so not as big a problem. When the eco boosts first came out ford learned multiport was the way to go because youd have 50,000mi valves looking like over 100k. And yeah as I mentioned in a below post a fanned cooler is the way to go because the grill is stuffed already.

Kenneth

Yeah, our WildTrak's oil temp seems to run high when climbing these Colorado mtns. I mean, just driving flat highways 70 - 75mph, in 60deg temps oil temp's 190 - 210. We live at 7,500ft west of Denver and climbing that 2,000ft raises oil & tranny temps with oil running above 210 to 230. Climbing into our high mtns drives oil to 240.

A friend's done several mods to lower his 2-door manual's engine temps - Meafy intercooler with alloy charge pipe, replaced ploy coolant reservoir with alloy tank, cooler running spark plugs & only running high test gas - Pretty much everything available. He says his oil's running about 10 - 12 deg cooler.

Obviously, Bronco's nano-twin-fan is a HOTTIE!! We run 91+ gas and keep an eye on temps particularly when climbing above 10,000ft and will take an occasional sightseeing break. An important point is never shutdown the engine when it's running at these high temps. ALWAYS give her several minutes at idle to avoid a 'heat soak' event.

Cheers

I knew it would and thats a decent drop. He should look into capturing oil before it regurgitates it too. 240 is too hot for my liking and heat kills, the lower (within a range) the better, 190 would be a sweet spot.

Mavgrab302

I like watching that guys videos. Havent watched this one yet but heat kills oils especially the non synthetic. Yeah you dont want the oil to be 100 degrees for sure but above 197 oils start to degrade and carbon from degraded oil starts sticking to intake valves and while it is direct injection ONLY thats a bad thing without port injection as well to help clean and cool intake valves. The other broncos I believe are port (fuel above intake valves) and direct. To mitigate this to keep oil out of the intake I've already installed ford catch cans (mechanical fix) and found while running around town (low temps) they never fill but after highway (higher oil temps) the passenger side had about 3 oz of really dark oil with only 2500 mi on the oil. That tells me 100% the oil is too hot. I can literally drive truck around town for much longer periods day after day and it never gets hot enough even when launching into traffic at times. People are on the fence about catch cans but undoubtably they mechanically catch oil and other vapors before reaching the intake. I may cad something up for the engine oil cooler, print it then see about getting them made up at a local CNC since nothing exists. A plate with for the head to divert oil through hoses to a traditional fanned cooler, and then a simple coupling for the water hoses since they will no longer be needed.

Catch cans do more than just providing a cleaner intake. They help prevent denotation and pre-ignition, ignition timing retarding. Protecting engines from damage and allowing them to perform at peak performance. Especially important on tuned turbos.

Crankcase Oil Vapor aka “Blow-By” from the PCV System
An issue particularly troublesome on high RPM and high boost motors is aerated oil vapor being blown back through the intake track via the positive crankcase ventilation, PCV, system. The oil has a significantly lower auto-ignition temperature and will ignite early causing detonation in sufficient volumes.
The oil comes from the high-pressure power stroke bleeding gas past the compression rings (rings #1 – 2) and down into the crankcase. The crankshaft is spinning at a high rate of speed, which creates a very turbulent environment of air and fine oil droplets known as “windage.” These droplets coat the cylinder walls and help to cool the engine and lubricate the pistons, but they also get blown down through the PCV.
On modern vehicles, the PCV is routed back to the intake tube where the blow-by vapors are consumed by the engine. Typically this is not an issue, but in sufficient volumes it can be. This is why air : oil separators are installed on performance engines which are particularly prone to these issues.

I wouldn’t say that my sewing machine is a performance engine but I did add an oil separator. I wish I knew about these sooner I would have added one to my suburban I would have to clean the throttle body every 10-12 k miles.

extra toasty

Catch cans do more than just providing a cleaner intake. They help prevent denotation and pre-ignition, ignition timing retarding. Protecting engines from damage and allowing them to perform at peak performance. Especially important on tuned turbos.

Crankcase Oil Vapor aka “Blow-By” from the PCV System
An issue particularly troublesome on high RPM and high boost motors is aerated oil vapor being blown back through the intake track via the positive crankcase ventilation, PCV, system. The oil has a significantly lower auto-ignition temperature and will ignite early causing detonation in sufficient volumes.
The oil comes from the high-pressure power stroke bleeding gas past the compression rings (rings #1 – 2) and down into the crankcase. The crankshaft is spinning at a high rate of speed, which creates a very turbulent environment of air and fine oil droplets known as “windage.” These droplets coat the cylinder walls and help to cool the engine and lubricate the pistons, but they also get blown down through the PCV.
On modern vehicles, the PCV is routed back to the intake tube where the blow-by vapors are consumed by the engine. Typically this is not an issue, but in sufficient volumes it can be. This is why air : oil separators are installed on performance engines which are particularly prone to these issues.

I totally agree I was just stating because some folks think they don't work at doing anything which is not a logical conclusion. You obvious know youre way around an engine too so glad to see it. I've had catch cans on everything from my shelby to jet boats because they simply remove possible issues that arise, much like the older engines with EGRs, removed those too..lol My C8 didnt need it because it was a dry sump, pretty much recirculates all oil and vapors by design and no way around it. Ford on the raptor from what I gather couldn't put them from factory on the raptors because EPA bs. I was building my own for the raptor till I noticed each bank had hosing so I just went with FP ones, but one of them have rubbed hood so going to be fixing that like this weekend, grinding down the canister carrier hasn't been enough so likely will shorten the tabs on the canister itself. Actually pretty upset at ford on that one being it rubbed off paint and a bit of hood material.

Jakob1972

I wouldn’t say that my sewing machine is a performance engine but I did add an oil separator. I wish I knew about these sooner I would have added one to my suburban I would have to clean the throttle body every 10-12 k miles.

Looks Legit. Fact is politicians that don't know a thing hamstring manufacturers into coming up with ways to be more compliant while actually in many cases causing more issues environmentally and mechanically. That said the catalytic converter actually did wonders while all this other regurgitating gases and oils and reburning moving this blah blah does nothing but cause more energy to be spent from engine failures, cost to build and replace, parts, to shipping those parts, the fuel needed to ship etc. Like my raptor, that thing eats more gas than my 96 bronco and even my rubicon 392.

Mavgrab302

Looks Legit. Fact is politicians that don't know a thing hamstring manufacturers into coming up with ways to be more compliant while actually in many cases causing more issues environmentally and mechanically. That said the catalytic converter actually did wonders while all this other regurgitating gases and oils and reburning moving this blah blah does nothing but cause more energy to be spent from engine failures, cost to build and replace, parts, to shipping those parts, the fuel needed to ship etc. Like my raptor, that thing eats more gas than my 96 bronco and even my rubicon 392.

Yup. I lived through the 6.0l Powerstroke EGR fiasco, still have the truck but I did An EGR delete and deleted two cylinders.😉