5th Gen Bronco Help and Guide needed

The 5.0 is a stout engine. I don’t think you would have a problem towing with that.

Also parts are plentiful for both those motors.

I’d select the one with the lowest miles and nicer interior!

Padams7

The 5.0 is a stout engine. I don’t think you would have a problem towing with that.

Also parts are plentiful for both those motors.

I’d select the one with the lowest miles and nicer interior!

Thank you for the reply.
Another question is what is high milage:
The 94 has 220k on the 5.8.
I’m looking to spend 10k. Is that to much in your option?

It sounds like you are fairly set on the 5.8. Having a mechanic experienced with the Bronco is key to purchasing an older rig with over 200,000 miles, and it sounds like you have that covered. I personally like the 5.0 because I've driven/owned several F-150's with that engine with little to no issues. I learned how to drive in a 73 that we used to haul just about everything with. The price depends on condition over all imo. Good luck with your decision!

Sdakotabronco

It sounds like you are fairly set on the 5.8. Having a mechanic experienced with the Bronco is key to purchasing an older rig with over 200,000 miles, and it sounds like you have that covered. I personally like the 5.0 because I've driven/owned several F-150's with that engine with little to no issues. I learned how to drive in a 73 that we used to haul just about everything with. The price depends on condition over all imo. Good luck with your decision!

Thank you for your input. I appreciate the reply.

Fedor

Sdakotabronco

It sounds like you are fairly set on the 5.8. Having a mechanic experienced with the Bronco is key to purchasing an older rig with over 200,000 miles, and it sounds like you have that covered. I personally like the 5.0 because I've driven/owned several F-150's with that engine with little to no issues. I learned how to drive in a 73 that we used to haul just about everything with. The price depends on condition over all imo. Good luck with your decision!

Thank you for your input. I appreciate the reply.

@Sdakotabronco is right!

Both the 5.8 and the 5.0 are Windsor blocks, and things like heads are interchangeable with them.

IF it was me, I would choose the vehicle with the straightest body and cleanest interior. Swapping an engine/transmission to me is not a big deal to me with those engines, I’ve been doing that 30 years.

But to you, it may be. If you’re more comfortable having an upholstery shop redo the interior, or junk yard searching for things, making sure you have a solid engine may be the wisest choice.

Padams7

Fedor

Sdakotabronco

It sounds like you are fairly set on the 5.8. Having a mechanic experienced with the Bronco is key to purchasing an older rig with over 200,000 miles, and it sounds like you have that covered. I personally like the 5.0 because I've driven/owned several F-150's with that engine with little to no issues. I learned how to drive in a 73 that we used to haul just about everything with. The price depends on condition over all imo. Good luck with your decision!

Thank you for your input. I appreciate the reply.

@Sdakotabronco is right!

Both the 5.8 and the 5.0 are Windsor blocks, and things like heads are interchangeable with them.

IF it was me, I would choose the vehicle with the straightest body and cleanest interior. Swapping an engine/transmission to me is not a big deal to me with those engines, I’ve been doing that 30 years.

But to you, it may be. If you’re more comfortable having an upholstery shop redo the interior, or junk yard searching for things, making sure you have a solid engine may be the wisest choice.

Got it. Thank you again. Will keep you posted which one works out.
Thank you.

Pull the 302 and drop in a 347. You're welcome.

I sold my ’84 with the 351 when the engine blew to buy my first F250 If I knew then what I know now I would have kept her and put a crate motor in and probably still have it. That’s what the folks that bought it from me 22 years ago did. Get the nicest one if you have to replace the motor that’s not too big a deal.

Jakob1972

I sold my ’84 with the 351 when the engine blew to buy my first F250 If I knew then what I know know I would have kept her and put a crate motor in and probably still have it. That’s what the folks that bought it from me 22 years ago did. Get the nicest one if you have to replace the motor that’s not too big a deal.

Crate engines can be an economical alternative to a rebuilding. Finding a place that will rebuild correctly is not easy to find these days.

for example

https://www.jegs.com/i/Blueprint+En...falfimTSBDSC_HzVd24e6MiXtbQsq3JRoClWwQAvD_BwE
https://www.jegs.com/i/ATK+Engines/...2Wie64BGv1Wmo3lBXNFtlUTNdIk-VuvhoCHvYQAvD_BwE
budget
https://www.powertrainproducts.net/...PlQPCaDbSC5ua6ky_v6xyCQc0-4DoVhBoCzvAQAvD_BwE

Your mechanic is correct.

The OBS Bronco (1992 -1996) is currently going up in value quickly..... with the 1996 OB2 being the hottest.
The Brick nose (1987 - 1991) is the best value.
The bull nose (1980 -1986) is a great purchase. No EFI so good luck finding a mechanic who works on carbureted motors.

Be careful... and totally throw mileage out of your equation. Your biggest concern is RUST. Anything north of the Carolinas will be a rust bucket … and not worth your time. Your best bet is to find a rust free starter Bronco from Arizona/ Texas/Cally …… just pull up a rain fall map of the US. anything place that gets a ton of rain will be prone to rust … and if they salt the roads .. don't even bother. check out the rear leaf spring hangers … this will show you how much rust is hidden. Don't just look at the wheel wells. Some shady sellers will bondo the crap out of the outside visible rust. The drip rails from the roof line down into the door will also show you have much rust there is. remember these are now selling like hotcakes. An asshat will try and dump a 2,000 rust bucket on a unsuspecting buyer for 9,000 or 10,000 by hiding rust.

Rust repair is no easy task. It is a art form … and if you pay someone to complete the repairs … 2,000 to 3,000 a repair is reasonable.

Pulling a motor/ tranny/ rear end/ ect is SUPER EASY compared to rust repair.

Owning a 25 year old ride requires you completing most of the repairs. We are all some form of wrench turners. It is not cost effective to pay a shop $100 a hour labor rate to keep your older ride on the road. You will end up paying a mechanic the equivalent of a monthly car payment ….. and not get the assurance of a factory warranty.

I have both a 1993 Bronco with a 5.8L and a E4OD tranny... and a 1996 Bronco with a 302 and a 5 speed. No Bronco came from the factory with a 5.8 and a stick.

The 5.0 is great above 3,000 RPMS. This is why it was so successful in the mustangs. It is a complete dog behind a slush box .. because the computer never lets you build the RPMS where the motors sees any real performance. Not the best for towing .. you really don't want to have to run High RPMS with a load … gas mileage alone will kill you

The 5.8 has more power where a truck needs it … at the low RPM range. Not bad for towing … but a 460 is the ultimate towing motor.

You can tow with a Bronco … but that is not what they where designed for. The short wheel base is something you cannot correct … and will always be a limiting factor … and handling with a heavy load is terrible …. and dangerous if you don't ensure the weight is evenly spaced.

Now the good part

They are super easy to work on … and plenty of options for parts. since the Fullsize Broncos are really just re-skinned F150's. If I were you I would locate a RUST FREE Bronco in Arizona … with a blown motor... or not running... for around 5,000. Get it shipped to the house for another 1,500.... then start looking for a F250 or F350 4x4 gasoline engine model of the same year of your purchase. Now what you get here is a total rust bucket …. with a decent powerplant for 2,500.

Swap in the 5.8 or even better the 460 engine/ tranny/ and transfer case.... and maybe a solid front axel out of your donor.

Now you have a rust free Bronco that will be worth big bucks in a few years … with a decent paint job .. maybe breaking the 25,000 mark

paul rondelli

Your mechanic is correct.

The OBS Bronco (1992 -1996) is currently going up in value quickly..... with the 1996 OB2 being the hottest.
The Brick nose (1987 - 1991) is the best value.
The bull nose (1980 -1986) is a great purchase. No EFI so good luck finding a mechanic who works on carbureted motors.

Be careful... and totally throw mileage out of your equation. Your biggest concern is RUST. Anything north of the Carolinas will be a rust bucket … and not worth your time. Your best bet is to find a rust free starter Bronco from Arizona/ Texas/Cally …… just pull up a rain fall map of the US. anything place that gets a ton of rain will be prone to rust … and if they salt the roads .. don't even bother. check out the rear leaf spring hangers … this will show you how much rust is hidden. Don't just look at the wheel wells. Some shady sellers will bondo the crap out of the outside visible rust. The drip rails from the roof line down into the door will also show you have much rust there is. remember these are now selling like hotcakes. An asshat will try and dump a 2,000 rust bucket on a unsuspecting buyer for 9,000 or 10,000 by hiding rust.

Rust repair is no easy task. It is a art form … and if you pay someone to complete the repairs … 2,000 to 3,000 a repair is reasonable.

Pulling a motor/ tranny/ rear end/ ect is SUPER EASY compared to rust repair.

Owning a 25 year old ride requires you completing most of the repairs. We are all some form of wrench turners. It is not cost effective to pay a shop $100 a hour labor rate to keep your older ride on the road. You will end up paying a mechanic the equivalent of a monthly car payment ….. and not get the assurance of a factory warranty.

I have both a 1993 Bronco with a 5.8L and a E4OD tranny... and a 1996 Bronco with a 302 and a 5 speed. No Bronco came from the factory with a 5.8 and a stick.

The 5.0 is great above 3,000 RPMS. This is why it was so successful in the mustangs. It is a complete dog behind a slush box .. because the computer never lets you build the RPMS where the motors sees any real performance. Not the best for towing .. you really don't want to have to run High RPMS with a load … gas mileage alone will kill you

The 5.8 has more power where a truck needs it … at the low RPM range. Not bad for towing … but a 460 is the ultimate towing motor.

You can tow with a Bronco … but that is not what they where designed for. The short wheel base is something you cannot correct … and will always be a limiting factor … and handling with a heavy load is terrible …. and dangerous if you don't ensure the weight is evenly spaced.

Now the good part

They are super easy to work on … and plenty of options for parts. since the Fullsize Broncos are really just re-skinned F150's. If I were you I would locate a RUST FREE Bronco in Arizona … with a blown motor... or not running... for around 5,000. Get it shipped to the house for another 1,500.... then start looking for a F250 or F350 4x4 gasoline engine model of the same year of your purchase. Now what you get here is a total rust bucket …. with a decent powerplant for 2,500.

Swap in the 5.8 or even better the 460 engine/ tranny/ and transfer case.... and maybe a solid front axel out of your donor.

Now you have a rust free Bronco that will be worth big bucks in a few years … with a decent paint job .. maybe breaking the 25,000 mark

Good point about the towing. Make sure the brakes are up to the task. I saw a 94 blow through a stop sign towing a Honda Civic on a trailer once because he could not stop. And he wasn’t speeding. I am assuming there were no trailer brakes. Also my neighbor totaled his 86 towing a travel trailer with no sway control and that trailer started whipping around back there, took the Bronco over with it. Not trying to scare you just be careful you will be fine.

paul rondelli

Your mechanic is correct.

The OBS Bronco (1992 -1996) is currently going up in value quickly..... with the 1996 OB2 being the hottest.
The Brick nose (1987 - 1991) is the best value.
The bull nose (1980 -1986) is a great purchase. No EFI so good luck finding a mechanic who works on carbureted motors.

Be careful... and totally throw mileage out of your equation. Your biggest concern is RUST. Anything north of the Carolinas will be a rust bucket … and not worth your time. Your best bet is to find a rust free starter Bronco from Arizona/ Texas/Cally …… just pull up a rain fall map of the US. anything place that gets a ton of rain will be prone to rust … and if they salt the roads .. don't even bother. check out the rear leaf spring hangers … this will show you how much rust is hidden. Don't just look at the wheel wells. Some shady sellers will bondo the crap out of the outside visible rust. The drip rails from the roof line down into the door will also show you have much rust there is. remember these are now selling like hotcakes. An asshat will try and dump a 2,000 rust bucket on a unsuspecting buyer for 9,000 or 10,000 by hiding rust.

Rust repair is no easy task. It is a art form … and if you pay someone to complete the repairs … 2,000 to 3,000 a repair is reasonable.

Pulling a motor/ tranny/ rear end/ ect is SUPER EASY compared to rust repair.

Owning a 25 year old ride requires you completing most of the repairs. We are all some form of wrench turners. It is not cost effective to pay a shop $100 a hour labor rate to keep your older ride on the road. You will end up paying a mechanic the equivalent of a monthly car payment ….. and not get the assurance of a factory warranty.

I have both a 1993 Bronco with a 5.8L and a E4OD tranny... and a 1996 Bronco with a 302 and a 5 speed. No Bronco came from the factory with a 5.8 and a stick.

The 5.0 is great above 3,000 RPMS. This is why it was so successful in the mustangs. It is a complete dog behind a slush box .. because the computer never lets you build the RPMS where the motors sees any real performance. Not the best for towing .. you really don't want to have to run High RPMS with a load … gas mileage alone will kill you

The 5.8 has more power where a truck needs it … at the low RPM range. Not bad for towing … but a 460 is the ultimate towing motor.

You can tow with a Bronco … but that is not what they where designed for. The short wheel base is something you cannot correct … and will always be a limiting factor … and handling with a heavy load is terrible …. and dangerous if you don't ensure the weight is evenly spaced.

Now the good part

They are super easy to work on … and plenty of options for parts. since the Fullsize Broncos are really just re-skinned F150's. If I were you I would locate a RUST FREE Bronco in Arizona … with a blown motor... or not running... for around 5,000. Get it shipped to the house for another 1,500.... then start looking for a F250 or F350 4x4 gasoline engine model of the same year of your purchase. Now what you get here is a total rust bucket …. with a decent powerplant for 2,500.

Swap in the 5.8 or even better the 460 engine/ tranny/ and transfer case.... and maybe a solid front axel out of your donor.

Now you have a rust free Bronco that will be worth big bucks in a few years … with a decent paint job .. maybe breaking the 25,000 mark

Thank you for the advise. I have a 21 f150 that I’ll be towing with but just in case I would be curious to see if the bronco can do it.
Just picked up a travel trailer so next on the list is bronco.
I have 3 that I’ll be looking at hopefully within couple weeks if they don’t sell.
Wish me luck.
And thanks again.

I agree that you have to find the most rust-free Bronco that you can afford. My '96 has almost 262K on it with the original driveline. Rear main drips a little but that is the only thing that needs repair. Body is mostly original with just 4 little spots of rust repair. There is a large wealth of knowledge on the Full Size Bronco forum. Full Size Ford Bronco Forum (fullsizebronco.com) I have to say that the '96 with OBDII and MAF runs better than the SD. Places to look for rust in the body is behind the doors inside and outside.Also the bottom of the tailgate is prone to rust but that is easily replaced. Good luck on your quest.

Bruners4

I agree that you have to find the most rust-free Bronco that you can afford. My '96 has almost 262K on it with the original driveline. Rear main drips a little but that is the only thing that needs repair. Body is mostly original with just 4 little spots of rust repair. There is a large wealth of knowledge on the Full Size Bronco forum. Full Size Ford Bronco Forum (fullsizebronco.com) I have to say that the '96 with OBDII and MAF runs better than the SD. Places to look for rust in the body is behind the doors inside and outside.Also the bottom of the tailgate is prone to rust but that is easily replaced. Good luck on your quest.

Thank you. Appreciate the reply.
Will keep searching .