Bumpers with integrated hitch

As far as the rear camera goes its mounted in the center of the spare wheel, so adding a additional tire carrier would block that camera. Not sure on rating question

I installed a Class III hitch bumper made by Poison Spyder on my 2018 Jeep JKU. It can be ordered with a tire carrier (which I didn't purchase). I learned in my research that there are bumpers out there with hitches incorporated but the fine print states they are not for towing. Some of the ads were downright deceitful. Those hitches were there for pulling another vehicle from a ditch or some other recovery type work. You will pay extra for a true Class III rating. Sites like Bronco Nation are a great place to begin your research on the best bumper with tow capability.

Some Smittybilt stuff is pretty solid with decent looks. Unfortunately nearly every piece of Smittybilt equipment I have or any of my Jeep friends have is plagued by rust leaking through the powder coat. Always happens. Almost like you should buy Smittybilt, take it to a powder coat company to strip, clean, perp, and recoat properly. Then you would have decent equipment at a reasonable price.

You get what you pay for. I bought Smittybuilt tube steps for the Jeep. The coating was thick but there were bare metal scratches in placed. I took care of those and had no issues with rust over the two years I owned it. It is built in China (like most things) so my confidence in consistent quality isn’t there yet.

Anyone have specifics on what makes a hitch class 2 vs 3? It seems neither have to be welded, and are just bolted on to the frame. Is it number of connection points to the frame? Is it the build and angles of the hitch body itself?

Bonnie6G

Anyone have specifics on what makes a hitch class 2 vs 3? It seems neither have to be welded, and are just bolted on to the frame. Is it number of connection points to the frame? Is it the build and angles of the hitch body itself?

Internet to the rescue? I suspect this is only part of the answer we need!

Class 2 hitches have a 1-1/4" receiver and generally only go up to 3,500 lbs. ... On the other hand, class 3 hitches have a 2" receiver and can range up to 8,000 lbs. gross trailer weight. Additionally, some class 3 hitches are able to be used with a weight-distribution hitch for a towing capacity as high as 12,000 lbs.

Seems additional information is located in this diagram. See tongue weights.

BuzzyBud

Internet to the rescue? I suspect this is only part of the answer we need!

Class 2 hitches have a 1-1/4" receiver and generally only go up to 3,500 lbs. ... On the other hand, class 3 hitches have a 2" receiver and can range up to 8,000 lbs. gross trailer weight. Additionally, some class 3 hitches are able to be used with a weight-distribution hitch for a towing capacity as high as 12,000 lbs.

Seems additional information is located in this diagram. See tongue weights.

View attachment 9855

Thanks Buzzy. I was aware of the ratings for each, but I’m curious about what provides the ability to have those ratings. Is it the hitch construction, or how it is mounted to the frame, or number of connection points, or some random DOT formula based on other vehicle ratings?

Bonnie6G

Thanks Buzzy. I was aware of the ratings for each, but I’m curious about what provides the ability to have those ratings. Is it the hitch construction, or how it is mounted to the frame, or number of connection points, or some random DOT formula based on other vehicle ratings?

It is possible the way the hitch is attached to the frame could vary, but that might be irrelevant if the true driver of whether a Class 2 or Class 3 hitch is chosen is the DOT. We know DOT regulates both GVWR and GCWR (Gross Combined Weight Rating). The tongue weight is a key component along with the max towing capacity.
Therefore, if you manufacture a vehicle that falls under a specific class, DOT will regulate your weight rating and therefore which class hitch you can provide to the consumer. How it is attached does not seem important to me.
However, I reserve the right to be completely wrong on this topic.

Bonnie6G

I’m planning on getting an aftermarket class 3 hitch install and would like to have it be integrated into the bumper. Might as well have a tire carrier on ther as well (assuming it fits the rear taillight/camera post). I found a few out there like the Smittybilt XRC below, but I’m curious if anyone has experience or advice on what to look out for when getting one of these. Is it a true class 3 hitch that is towing rated? Wiring, lights, etc? Anyone have recommendations for manufacturers they’ve used in the past that may likely come out with something for the Bronco?
View attachment 9844

After reading about your future Bronco as documented on a separate thread, I have a better understanding of your plans. Please keep in mind the contents of the door jam label on your future Badlands 4-door. Your planned configuration could push your vehicle's weight beyond the upper limit. As you contemplate changes to the bumpers, you might consider aluminum replacements and even aluminum underbody armor to reduce overall weight. Your 2.7L and auto are adding weight you cannot reduce. I am assuming your goal in having a class 3 hitch is to accommodate a higher tongue weight and maybe a greater towing capacity. Since the vehicle suspension and brakes are all keyed into the GVWR, you might study that door jam label as a first step. Just a thought.

BuzzyBud

After reading about your future Bronco as documented on a separate thread, I have a better understanding of your plans. Please keep in mind the contents of the door jam label on your future Badlands 4-door. Your planned configuration could push your vehicle's weight beyond the upper limit. As you contemplate changes to the bumpers, you might consider aluminum replacements and even aluminum underbody armor to reduce overall weight. Your 2.7L and auto are adding weight you cannot reduce. I am assuming your goal in having a class 3 hitch is to accommodate a higher tongue weight and maybe a greater towing capacity. Since the vehicle suspension and brakes are all keyed into the GVWR, you might study that door jam label as a first step. Just a thought.

Yep, all great points. Weight is definitely something I’m considering with all my adjustments. I don’t plan to tow anything heavy, but I noticed a lot of overland trailers are right around the 3500 lb range which brought me down the hitch/bumper rabbit hole. Plus I envision the hitch to be an additional rescue point where I’d trust a class 3 more compared to a class 2. I’m gonna be looking to shave weight anywhere I can for any aftermarket accessories.

Every hitch I have ever installed is bolt on. The only exception are the integrated bumper hitches that you have mentioned. I am a contractor and every hitch we install is a class V bolt on. On the dozens of work trucks we have bought almost all come with class III hitches. When we swap them out for heavy duty class V hitches the main differences are the thickness of all of the metal and the amount/size of bolts attaching the hitch to the frame. Occasionally a few holes need to be drilled in the frame to accommodate the added bolting points but otherwise they are a simple swap out. That being said, we always order the tow package even though we know that we will probably throw out the hitch. The factory wired electrical harness and brake controllers are convenient, priced fairly when you take into account labor and materials, and never have issues. So even if I was going to replace the bumper with an integrated bumper/hitch I would get the tow package (I am) for the wiring integration. Now if you will not be towing and only want to put a bike rack or recovery point back there, well then skip the tow package.

Pakrat

Every hitch I have ever installed is bolt on. The only exception are the integrated bumper hitches that you have mentioned. I am a contractor and every hitch we install is a class V bolt on. On the dozens of work trucks we have bought almost all come with class III hitches. When we swap them out for heavy duty class V hitches the main differences are the thickness of all of the metal and the amount/size of bolts attaching the hitch to the frame. Occasionally a few holes need to be drilled in the frame to accommodate the added bolting points but otherwise they are a simple swap out. That being said, we always order the tow package even though we know that we will probably throw out the hitch. The factory wired electrical harness and brake controllers are convenient, priced fairly when you take into account labor and materials, and never have issues. So even if I was going to replace the bumper with an integrated bumper/hitch I would get the tow package (I am) for the wiring integration. Now if you will not be towing and only want to put a bike rack or recovery point back there, well then skip the tow package.

Thanks for the insight! I agree with you on getting the wiring from the factory, however I notice that the package from Ford does not come with trailer brake wiring, so it’s probably only a 4-pin. You’d have to run additional wiring anyway for a class 3 with a 7-pin connection

Just a little info here.
Our Bronco Sport.
Big Bend
Factory installed hitch....
2” reciever.

14U

Just a little info here.
Our Bronco Sport.
Big Bend
Factory installed hitch....
2” reciever.

Which wiring connection does it have?

4 pin-
But remember it’s a Sport

14U

4 pin-
But remember it’s a Sport

Thanks, and yep understood on the potential model differences. Would be good if we could get this detail confirmed for the Big Guy.

Honestly, if I was gonna tow right on the weight capacity line. I would Rather have a K&H or whatever aftermarket set up with a bump switch with it.
Especially on the shorter wheelbase rigs.

Bonnie6G

Thanks, and yep understood on the potential model differences. Would be good if we could get this detail confirmed for the Big Guy.

https://community.thebronconation.com/forums/threads/4-or-7-pin-connector.3489/#post-45494Look at post #6 in this thread.