Air Filters

I use KN on everything, even my parents Range Rovers (Diesel and Supercharged 5.0). You gotta clean them, but they do a hell of a job

I hear the whoosh and stuff more now than I ever could before on my 2.3. I never used whipple, so got no opinion either way, but definitely vouch for KN and AFE

We use the whipple V-top filter in our 2.3 MT (see pics below). Its really good, better than the K&N model and better airflow for the turbo. Sorry for the plug but it also pairs really well with our sprint booster product we sell here on BN (thread and purchase link below if interested in learning more about it or read others reviews).

Note, the whipple filter model is actually mfg by S&B filter co. My husband first used SB V-top design in a CAI on his old 2000 Durango RT 20 years ago and it worked great there too.

Install tip, you don't have to remove the airbox cover clip...leave the clip inserted and just push the top of the airbox over to the right during install (see pic).

Also suggest getting a pre-filter/sock for either design if you plan on heavy dust offroad OR clean it after offroad. The cleaning kit with blue oil is on S&B website.

NT Auto Sprint Booster Purchase Link:
https://ntautomotive.thrivecart.com/sprint-booster-v3-performance-security/
NT Auto Sprint Booster Thread:
https://thebronconation.com/forums/...security-performance-wont-void-warranty.9080/
NT Auto Pedal Lock Tutorial Sprint Booster:


Tiffany
NT Automotive
Est. 1992

My take on K&N comes from older Diesel trucks. My 12V Cummins has a BHAF the K&N when clean lets too much dust into the intake and Dusted my first Turbo since then I have always used a good conventional filter on my Turbo vehicles. There is a pre filter sock you can add to a K&N filter I would look into one of those. Also the K&N even states they work better when they are a little dirty. At least the old ones did.

100% honesty, don't get either. Keep stock filter and replace when dirty is the best way. There is
A lot of research out there that shows without a tune and pushing stock power these filters don't add any benefits. The plus side to the wet type of filters is that it traps dirt easier than a dry standard filter so can cause more harm than good. Just my opinion and your results may vary.

Hkak45

100% honesty, don't get either. Keep stock filter and replace when dirty is the best way. There is
A lot of research out there that shows without a tune and pushing stock power these filters don't add any benefits. The plus side to the wet type of filters is that it traps dirt easier than a dry standard filter so can cause more harm than good. Just my opinion and your results may vary.

They do help a little without voiding the warranty via better throttle response, increased turbo sound and power 1-5hp gain. If you do plan on a lot of heavy dust offroad missions get a non-oiled high flow air filter OR a sock pre-filter. We live in dusty so-cal desert and after 6 months our filter is still clean driving around town. No build up. No loss in power. Can clean it whenever needed (annually worst case). We used a K&N cone filter with pre-filter on our dune buggy years ago (tons of sand/dust) and it held up perfectly. Honestly the best advice with regards to these products is, respectfully speaking, don't knock it until you try it.

I am sure that if any of you have been reading any of my posts from the past you might remember that I was in the automotive parts and supply business for more then a decade. One of the products that my company supplied was air filtration. (You can skip this post if you get bored by tech talk!)

The KN filters are pretty and expensive and reusable and all this other cool stuff that the website talks about. The start up kit ($29.99) and Filter ($74.99) are good quality filters, no argument there at all. I am not going to argue that you won't see an increase in good old HORSE POWER! But her is the difference, I wish I could find my old imaging, the holes in a K&N filter are specific and exactly the same size, because the filter element is synthetic and manufactured that way. The down size to that is that is that anything smaller then the uniform holes will get thru. Well, you K&N filter guys are going to say, not with the oil treatment on the filter . . . well . . .
The filter paper is say your average Purolator One ($27.49) filter is a microscopic overlay of fibrous material that has all sorts of different size holes all the way thru it, so it will catch all sorts of different size particles. The K&N filter actually starts performing better when it is a little dirty because a lot of those universal size holes have be reshaped due to dirt build up. So that increase in HORSE POWER has already become limited to where the other filter is at because the airflow is being restricted at the same rate as the standard filter. Another thing to think about is the down time and the oil used on the K&N filter itself. I am going to assume here that you are using the K&N Branded Service kit. What I want you to try the next time you service your filter is after following the directions on the proper cleaning technique it can take between 1 to 4 hours to completely dry. (I got that off a K&N website board.) Take a bendy straw bent a a 45 degree angle, then put the bent part near the freshly oiled filter and blow. I am willing to bet that oil makes it thru the filter. That means that oil is traveling thru your intake to your throttle position sensor and sticking to it, it also acts like a sticky glue to catch any dirt that now happens to touch the wet, oily sensor. During the cleaning process you don't get to go anywhere during that, IF YOU ARE FOLLOWING THE DIRECTIONS IN THE BOX. If you put the oil on the filter before it has completely dried, well high school chemistry taught us how well oil and water work together. Even if your best friend's college roommate, Travis, who used to work a Bob's Oil Change and Tire Shop for a few weeks last summer, told your best friend that you really don't have to wait for it to be dry (you do by the way).

Enough rambling on, do K&N filters do what they claim and increase HORSE POWER? Yes they do.
Is the increase in HORSE POWER maintained during the entire time that the filter is installed between cleanings? Not according to the research.
Do you have extra down time due to owing a K&N Filter for your car? If you clean and maintain your filter as the manufacturer recommends. Unless you buy two K&N filters and you can swap them out with each other.

If you change your air filter once a year or every 12,000 miles (average in the US) then you can go with around 4 of the standard filters for the purchase of a K&N filter and service kit.

Personally I just use a good quality, paper element air filter. I don't waste the money on the performance filters cause I don't see the benefits.

Neither does Bugatti, look what their air filter looks like in a Chiron from the factory:

Only like $150.00 too!


I will state that the information provided above was provided to be both factual and fun. The opinions listed above are mine and mine alone, compiled thru years in the business and many many training classes that are guaranteed to put you to sleep. They are not the professional opinions of Bronco Nation or any of its sponsors. All pricing listed in this rant was found by google searching 2022 Ford Bronco Air filter 2.7l. If you read all this, thanks, if you didn't you would not see this message so it doesn't matter.

SCBronco1

I am sure that if any of you have been reading any of my posts from the past you might remember that I was in the automotive parts and supply business for more then a decade. One of the products that my company supplied was air filtration. (You can skip this post if you get bored by tech talk!)

The KN filters are pretty and expensive and reusable and all this other cool stuff that the website talks about. The start up kit ($29.99) and Filter ($74.99) are good quality filters, no argument there at all. I am not going to argue that you won't see an increase in good old HORSE POWER! But her is the difference, I wish I could find my old imaging, the holes in a K&N filter are specific and exactly the same size, because the filter element is synthetic and manufactured that way. The down size to that is that is that anything smaller then the uniform holes will get thru. Well, you K&N filter guys are going to say, not with the oil treatment on the filter . . . well . . .
The filter paper is say your average Purolator One ($27.49) filter is a microscopic overlay of fibrous material that has all sorts of different size holes all the way thru it, so it will catch all sorts of different size particles. The K&N filter actually starts performing better when it is a little dirty because a lot of those universal size holes have be reshaped due to dirt build up. So that increase in HORSE POWER has already become limited to where the other filter is at because the airflow is being restricted at the same rate as the standard filter. Another thing to think about is the down time and the oil used on the K&N filter itself. I am going to assume here that you are using the K&N Branded Service kit. What I want you to try the next time you service your filter is after following the directions on the proper cleaning technique it can take between 1 to 4 hours to completely dry. (I got that off a K&N website board.) Take a bendy straw bent a a 45 degree angle, then put the bent part near the freshly oiled filter and blow. I am willing to bet that oil makes it thru the filter. That means that oil is traveling thru your intake to your throttle position sensor and sticking to it, it also acts like a sticky glue to catch any dirt that now happens to touch the wet, oily sensor. During the cleaning process you don't get to go anywhere during that, IF YOU ARE FOLLOWING THE DIRECTIONS IN THE BOX. If you put the oil on the filter before it has completely dried, well high school chemistry taught us how well oil and water work together. Even if your best friend's college roommate, Travis, who used to work a Bob's Oil Change and Tire Shop for a few weeks last summer, told your best friend that you really don't have to wait for it to be dry (you do by the way).

Enough rambling on, do K&N filters do what they claim and increase HORSE POWER? Yes they do.
Is the increase in HORSE POWER maintained during the entire time that the filter is installed between cleanings? Not according to the research.
Do you have extra down time due to owing a K&N Filter for your car? If you clean and maintain your filter as the manufacturer recommends. Unless you buy two K&N filters and you can swap them out with each other.

If you change your air filter once a year or every 12,000 miles (average in the US) then you can go with around 4 of the standard filters for the purchase of a K&N filter and service kit.

Personally I just use a good quality, paper element air filter. I don't waste the money on the performance filters cause I don't see the benefits.

Neither does Bugatti, look what their air filter looks like in a Chiron from the factory:View attachment 41200

Only like $150.00 too!


I will state that the information provided above was provided to be both factual and fun. The opinions listed above are mine and mine alone, compiled thru years in the business and many many training classes that are guaranteed to put you to sleep. They are not the professional opinions of Bronco Nation or any of its sponsors. All pricing listed in this rant was found by google searching 2022 Ford Bronco Air filter 2.7l. If you read all this, thanks, if you didn't you would not see this message so it doesn't matter.

Good write up. Thanks for sharing. Hopefully all data shared in this thread helps those curious about what filter to go with on their rig.

Yes, when you clean it you have to make sure the filter is dry before re-oiling (towel, fan, and even sunlight to help speed up the drying process). Also wipe down the filter after oiling AND I personally wait up to 24 hours before driving after re-oiling. If living in humid climate sunlight and waiting a day are suggested. I've had zero engine issues with this clean/oil method on a dozen vehicles over last 25yrs in both dry and humid climates.

I'll admit some vehicles I didn't mess with the air filter...most of them were V8s.

My old 2016 and 2019 4Runners had a thick paper OEM filter like the Bugatti one. I would use it only in thick dust storms here in the desert. But it was restrictive on paved road so on long roadtrips, around town etc. I used the TRD air filter instead, just like K&N sold in Toyota dealer parts dept. It provided noticeable change in sound coming from the airbox, modest power gain and mildly improved mpg.

When pushing 37s with lift and heavy bumpers in our 2.3 BL MT you seek any healthy non warranty voiding products to help boost performance and mpg lol. Make no mistake, the 2.3 MT 4.70 rear axle has PLENTY of small but mighty power. However, we are not willing to do a tune nor are we even upgrading the exhaust. The air filter swap from standard to high flow is one of a select few simple performance upgrades we prefer especially on a turbo vehicle that thrive on less restrictive air flow. Its also a safe bet for a small improvement if not wanting to void your warranty. Plus being able to clean it yourself is nice.

To each their own. If you like paper, oiled, non oiled, vtop or moth ball air filters haha we think its great!! You do whatever you think is best for your vehicle and driving style.

I'll stick with OEM filters at recommended changes ;) , same with oil filters , cabin filters and oil for that mater .