Hitch Install

First addition to the instructions from Juggernaut…wrap the spare tire mount pin (camera mount) with tape to keep from damaging it when you remove the spare. Leave it wrapped to protect when you put everything back together. Also, wrap the end of your lug wrench with tape to protect your painted wheels when removing/replacing the spare.

(Special note…that big green…appendage… is in the perfect place for causing cerebral trauma while working on the bumper…theoretically)

Once the bumper is off, the hitch slides right in and bolts up with factory holes.

Make sure you have a long handle torque wrench as Ford states the hitch bolts need to be 82 ft/lb. You will feel like the bolt heads are about to shear when the torque wrench finally clicks. These are not coming loose.

Installed and waiting for power

LagoCJ

Installed and waiting for power

Looks nice!

LagoCJ

First addition to the instructions from Juggernaut…wrap the spare tire mount pin (camera mount) with tape to keep from damaging it when you remove the spare. Leave it wrapped to protect when you put everything back together. Also, wrap the end of your lug wrench with tape to protect your painted wheels when removing/replacing the spare.

(Special note…that big green…appendage… is in the perfect place for causing cerebral trauma while working on the bumper…theoretically)

Great tips. What size are the lugs on the Bronco?
In the past, I've always gotten a deepwell socket that has a plastic protective covering over the end which protects the finish of the rims.
Something like this.

More info...

I was able to find a great person on B6G that has been working on the tow wiring dilemma for awhile. He has some great info about the wiring and solution options (none are flawless, but great amounts of work and info here, including the factory wiring harness install instructions which are missing when you buy the kit)

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/tow-package-arrived-contents-inside.17659/page-10
I have been trying to find a T-connector style wiring harness solution like Curt makes for the Ranger. Finally able to the find the right connector ends to start the build process. They are Motorcraft WPT889 and WPT890 20 pin connectors. Ford makes prewired pigtails with both connectors, but you need two each (one for left and one for right). Ordered them off of eBay and will update on process.

I did mine yesterday,hitch was no problem about 40 minutes and it was done. The wiring is a different story it’s a little tricky to get to the wires on the tail lights. Without any videos out there if you haven’t ever worked with body plastics or interior plastics be careful lots of clips and bolts in tight places to get at the wires. My kit was from Ford no instructions in the box and the site for installation instruction that is on the box is for dealers only. But with some patients it doable

What are the torque specs on rear bumper? Please and thank you

Drew

What are the torque specs on rear bumper? Please and thank you

I’m not sure there are some bolts that you probably couldn’t get a torque wrench on so I just tightened them as tight as I could get them.

Drew

What are the torque specs on rear bumper? Please and thank you

The instructions don't include the torque numbers for those bolts, so I just judged the tightening torque on what it took to remove them. Surprisingly, I didn't need a torque handle/breaker bar to get those bolts off, so they weren't heavily tightened. The bolts are stout and have locktite on them, so I will just keep an eye on things. Once the service manuals start rolling out, hopefully I will be able to check the actual torque stats and go back and make them right.

The 1/2 grade-8 bolts (13 pitch) included in the Curt hitch (as well as any other quality grade-8 1/2” coarse bolt will be 106 ft-lbs (144 N-m). Curt instructions say 110 ft-lbs. If it’s lubed the torque spec drops to 80 ft-lbs. I will let the forum hash out whether to drop the torque spec down when using loctite. I won’t debate that can of worms here.

I got the Curt Receiver/Hitch - I did not have to remove the bumper to install.

It seriously took under 10 minutes, mounts for factory holes, and doesn’t stick out like some other aftermarket ones I’ve seen.

I am not worried about wiring yet, will wait for a plug and play so there is no splicing, but wanted something for a basket, and will weld up a fishing rod holder.